Green Blazer for the Good Times

Remember a few years ago when everyone was building their wardrobe and trying to make clothes for the way they live? More cake less frosting. Becoming a wardrobe architect. All that jazz. Well, one year into the pandemic and I have no interest in sewing for the way I'm living. I have been feeling so unkempt in my sweatpants, no-makeup, and ponytail. So I'm dressing for the life I want. And somehow that life involves bright lips, clean hair, and a forest green blazer with rolled cuffs. 

Pattern: McCall's Palmer Pletsch Misses' Jacket #6172 

Fabric: 2 yds Robert Kaufman Ventana Twill in Dark Green

Cost: $30

Do I need a blazer right now? Absolutely not. But when you're bored at home it is the perfect challenging project. Also, if things ever do open back up, this will be nice for dressing up a bit or even more casual work meetings. I just love a good green!

I wanted to make a blazer because I love being able to roll my sleeves up. But if you've ever tried this on a normal jacket you'll find that it is quite difficult if the sleeves are too small at the wrists. To adjust this pattern, I found the widest part of each sleeve piece and widened all the tapered lines to match that width. So the sleeve is no longer tapered and rolls up really nicely. It makes the sleeves look pretty big and I thought I might have to take them in some, but this is really how much fabric you need if you want to be able to roll them up. 

I used my old standby pattern for this blazer, McCall's Palmer Pletsch Misses' Jacket #6172. I believe I bought this in 2010 and have been making great-fitting blazers with it ever since. Surprisingly, it is still for sale on the McCall's website. My friend Beth the jacket queen even named this as one of her favorite blazer patterns, so you know it's worth it. And if you're looking to brush up on your jacket-making skills, she offers classes at Hello Stitch studio. 

One other change I made to this pattern was to change the welt pocket to a sort of patch pocket that sits neatly between the side seam and the front princess seam. The truth is, I'm really not that good with welt pockets and wanted to try something a bit different. I also think it helps make the blazer a bit more casual.

I also haven't added a button yet. Maybe I'll leave it this way? 

Some people choose unlined jackets because they think the construction will be cheaper than making a lining. But I find that you spend so much time on nice seam finishes (which will show when you take the jacket off) that it is almost certainly quicker to line it. So of course, to take up as much time as possible, I did a mostly unlined version with bound seams. Not only did this give me more project to work on, but it also meant I could work with the materials I had on hand and not have to buy more lining. I lined the sleeves in a leftover lighter weight twill that turned out to be almost an exact match. The other seams are bound in a combination of black and black and white bias tapes that I had on hand. It was the perfect way to use up leftover materials. 

Here's another shot of the inside. You can see all the bound seams in more detail, as well as the sleeve lining. All the facings were hand sewn to the garment, and the sleeve was hand sewn at the armhole. 

I hope I find a time to wear this soon. In the meantime, I'll be dreaming about the life I want. 

The Graduate Blazer

In grad school, my classmate and friend Toni taught us about power poses. Before an important presentation or event, she would have us strike a pose that made us feel powerful, like we could take on any task at hand. And then we did - pose and take on that task. And as silly as I thought it was at first, it really did help! I felt ready to take on the world!

This blazer is my power pose. It's professional but casual, and also has a special little touch that will always remind me of my time at grad school and all the hard work we put in.


Pattern: SBCC's Rickey Jacket with shawl collar view
Fabric: cotton linen blend for shell, cotton sateen for lining
Cost: $30 for the shell, $50 for the lining = $80

The thing that makes this blazer so special is the lining fabric. It is printed with the data code that I used to process my data for my master's thesis (that's R code for you nerds out there). It looks a bit like the matrix in there, but it's something I spent a lot of time on and was very proud of. For me, this fabric was a great way to commemorate learning new skills and completing this massive project before graduation.

For those who are curious, I worked with the Oakland Police Department for my public policy thesis to analyze over ten months of traffic stop data. The research built on findings that traffic stops in our community have been racially imbalanced, with African Americans significantly more likely to be stopped than white residents. My analysis looked at how officer stress and fatigue, such as not taking breaks, working long shifts, and responding to multiple 911 calls might affect these interactions by amplifying interactions. Most notably, I found that officers have a culture of not taking breaks during their shifts, which could exacerbate bias in their interactions. You can read the full report here, or hear me on the radio toward the end of this broadcast here.

While I mostly complained about my personal stress and lack of sewing time on my blog at this time, I was immensely excited to participate in such valuable research in my own community, and earn a degree while doing it. In celebration, I originally ordered this fabric for my graduation dress, but it didn't come in time. So there it sat in my closet for a couple of years, waiting for just the right project. Finally. I decided - a blazer! It was the perfect opportunity to put something powerful in something that made me feel powerful. And it's just quirky enough to be fun!

The pattern I used was the Skinny Bitch Curvey Chick Ricky Jacket. Some of you may know that this is a petite pattern in a wide size range, from 00 to 28. I am not petite. But what attracted me to this pattern was the cool shawl collar and I couldn't get it out of my head. So I de-petited it by lengthening each piece by two inches at the lengthen shorten time. It's not altogether necessary given all the great blazer patterns out there, but it was interesting to do and let me try out a new-to-me pattern maker.


Overall I thought the SBCC pattern was great. There are instructions for tailoring and lining the jacket. It's also got a great technique for making the welt pockets that makes them a lot easier. My only complaint is something that bothers me on a lot of patterns: sometimes the directions are very hand-holdy, and other times it leaves out steps that I would think a sewer who needs handholding might not know. For example, it includes instructions for what an edgestitch is, how to sew stitches for easing the armhole, and how to mark a buttonhole for stitching, but doesn't talk about how to clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk at the collar or create the turn of cloth on the lapel. On a lot of indy patterns I'm left wondering, who is this sewer who doesn't know what edgestitching is but knows all about what seam allowances to trim and how? Anyway, small grievance that I see all the time.


On my jacket, I wish I hadn't put the buttonhole up so high. That wasn't how the pattern was designed and I'm not sure why I did it because it looks a little silly now. If I'm remembering correctly, I think I also had to lower the height of the sleeve cap because I just couldn't get that thing set in there without some puckering.

But I am super proud of my jacket and that little touch that helps me celebrate becoming a professional in my field. Now off to do some more power poses before I psych myself out!

Meg Makes a Jacket, the Finale

Pattern: Simplicity's Misses' Sportswear #2455
Fabric: 2 yds wool + acetate lining
Cost: $45

Well I didn't mean to drag these jacket posts out so long, but as you can tell this was a rather big project for me! I am very pleased with the final product, and this past weekend it accompanied me to a wedding in Alaska. It is so nice to have a classic, goes-with-anything jacket in my wardrobe that I can wear for more formal occasions, yet still fits my style.

This last part of the project I finished on my own. After about 6 hours of sewing with Beth, I was exhausted and a bit cross-eyed, not to mention starting to make mistakes! It was amazing to soak all the information in though, and I managed to jot down a few more tips before heading home to attach the sleeves and sew on the lining.

First, she opened up a jacket she had and showed me how to support the shoulder with a bias strip of fabric sewn within the seam allowance. Without using an actual shoulder pad, this extra step gives the jacket a bit more support where needed.

Then it was time to do the lining. I may have promised Beth that I would hand sew in the lining, but once I got home all thoughts of that went out the window. Truth be told, I actually don't mind leaving many of my things unlined, so I reasoned that practicing bagging the lining could be just as educational as putting one in by hand. Right?!

The jacket pattern we used does not include instructions for a lining, so I did some internet research and followed Beth's advice for drafting my own. I like Tasia's (of Sewaholic) tutorial on drafting a lining, but the one that won over was the Grainline tutorial, as I am extremely visual and a sucker for good graphics. The only hiccup I ran into with hers, however, is that the instructions are meant for patterns with facings, so I actually needed to draft my lining shorter, not longer, than the pattern pieces. Other than that, though, both tutorials provide helpful instructions for making a successful lining that allows for ease of movement.

Here is the inside of Beth's jacket, where she drafted her lining with a single pleat that I think looks elegant and allows for ease of movement. I ended up doing an inverted pleat, which didn't hang as well for me.

After everything is inserted, Beth also recommended tacking the lining down to the jacket at the top of the sleeve. This helps prevent the lining from sliding around too much. Unfortunately, I forgot the important detail that this should be done at the top and not the underarm. By tacking the underarm, you restrict movement, and I believe that's why you see a few creases around the under arm in the picture of my jacket at the top of the post. I will fix and report back. Here is the proper way, tacking it at the shoulder seam:

These last few steps (attaching the sleeves, inserting the lining) were done over the course of about a month. While Beth and I made rapid progress in her sewing studio, I found that it was hard to set aside time for a such a Big Project. Rather than sewing on the weeknights, I felt I had to wait to work on it until I had the proper concentration, like a long block of time on the weekend. This definitely slowed me down, and left me appreciating both the Big and Little projects that I do. The final jacket took another month or two to complete, but the end project was very worth it.

Overall, the experience of sewing with a teacher and role model like Beth was incredibly rewarding. She was so patient and non-judgmental, and I can't believe how many tricks that woman has up her (handmade) sleeve! I have a feeling I just scratched the surface with this project. If you have the chance of pushing your skills with a sewing teacher I highly recommend it, or even a visit to Beth herself if you live in the Bay Area or are planning a visit. Many women go to her for fitting help, but I could see hiring her for help if I ever made a Big White Dress or other important project. And I still need to pick her brain about collared shirts, because she said she had some tips!

After this immense brain exercise though, I think I'll cosy up with some 2-hour t-shirt patterns for a bit to recover. And hopefully I'll be back soon with a post about the dress that you can glimpse in the above photos.

Ponte Blazer

Pattern: McCall's Unlined Jacket M6519
Fabric: 2 yds ponte knit
Cost: $30

What a bummer it must be, I thought as I stood at the mirror, adjusting my jacket hem, to not be able to make your own clothes. To be at the whim of the department store, and whatever colors are in season. To have a too long torso and no recourse, or to prefer a different sheen... 

Maybe it's the control freak in me, but I can't stand to pay department store prices for a jacket that's just not right. And while the things I make don't always fit me as well as the department store version, it is so much fun to pick out every aspect of the thing I'm making - from the fabric and buttons all the way down to the hem length and the sleeve cap.

This process was abundantly clear in this jacket, a simple blazer for work. In the re-drafting process, I changed everything from the length to the cut, shifting the shape from cropped and boxy to hip-length and close-fitting. Instead of a woven fabric, I used a stable ponte knit, which is so comfy and makes the look a tad bit more casual - perfect for regular wear. During the process I nipped and tucked, taking the shoulder seam back 1/2 inch, playing with the hem length depending on what inspiration I found on Pinterest, and adding buttons where there were none. The result? Much better!

You may think from all the tweaking I've done that McCall's M6519 is an ill-fitting pattern, but I actually love it. I bought it for the one-piece collar, which is more of a shawl collar than a blazer but with a notch cut out for that "blazer" look. The fact that it's unlined makes it a breeze to put together. While I have spent hours making a more proper blazer, this pattern is a heckuva lot easier, while still pulling off that classic look. I don't know about you, but I'm all for shortcuts when the result is just what I've been wanting.

As for the fabric, I've been seeing ponte blazers all over the place lately, and I loved the drape and ease of wearing. It feels less "stuffy" to me than putting on a full suit for work, and is as comfy as a t-shirt for long days in the cube'. That and the fact that it's summer now, so this will be the perfect lightweight jacket for heading to the office (it's San Francisco - ALWAYS bring layers).

The funny thing is, I attempted to make another unconventional blazer a few years ago - a sweatshirt blazer. I don't think I interfaced it? And the stretch was more than I could handle. It's amazing what a couple years difference makes!

Men's Casual Blazer

Project: BurdayStyle's Suit B7046

Materials: Medium-weight canvas and bias binding

Cost: $40

In the festive spirit of these recent holidays, today I'm posting the last of K's birthday presents, an unlined men's blazer. (Sneak peak back here.) 

I have said this before, but dressing 'up' in the San Francisco Bay Area always seems to me to be a bit tricky. In a world where CEOs are known to wear flip flops and shorts to work and where a bicycle is the primary means of transportation, it can be difficult to look nice without overdoing it. 

Enter this blazer. It's a classic tailored design made up in a more casual medium-weight navy canvas. I used BurdayStyle's Suit B7046, relaxing the fit a tad by removing some of the extra shaping seams. Outer patch pockets and the unlined style make the whole thing totally wearable for everything from a nice dinner out to his professor gig in the city. 

The inspiration for the blazer comes from Taylor Stitch's Sea Washed Navy Cotton and Linen Telegraph Blazer (link may expire). The original is a beautiful, made-in-America garment that K tried on in their SF store, but with a $200 price tag it was definitely a splurge. So, I did the classic "I could make that!" and spent $40 and 10 hours in my sewing corner making him one for his birthday. I would say that my version might even fit him a little bit better!

I am most proud of the inside, which is finished almost entirely in contrast binding (tutorial here). Having made this right after rushing my way through the Fabric Mart Fashion Challenges, I really enjoyed taking my time and making a durable, handsome product. The canvas was super easy to sew with, and I was very excited with the results!

I was a bit nervous when giving him his gift because I was worried it wouldn't fit! But it slipped on fine, and overall it has been quite a hit! He has worn it out several times in the past few weeks alone. The one adjustment I had to make - and that you should keep in mind for this pattern - is that the jacket length and sleeves came out quite short! This was a surprise considering it looks quite oversized on the envelope, but luckily it was remedied by taking the sleeves out a full 2 inches. Lucky save!

Finally, I leave you with some detailed shots. I may have reminded him repeatedly that I spent a lot of time on his jacket and that, in my humble opinion, it was exceptionally well made...

Flighty Birds Blazer

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Lined Jackets in 3 Lengths #M6172

Fabric: 2 yds cotton voile + 2 yds satin polyester lining
Cost: $45

I'm fond of off-beat prints, but so far I've struggled with blazer patterns. First off they put darts, princess seams, and back pleats all over my wonderful fabric! And, sadly, my store-bought blazers have fit better than anything I've made myself. So, in typical Meg fashion, I charted my own course, combining the pattern pieces so that there was only a front and a back--no princess seams, no darts. I then plunged my way into the lining, a first for me as far as making blazers go. I took my own shortcuts, did things my way. It was a bit bumbly. And then, after shortening it, I couldn't properly reattach the collar. The result is a little home-ec.

As you can tell, making this blazer was a struggle. I was first inspired by the Topshop version, which I'd seen around the 'net. I bought the fabric a month or two later, and it wasn't cheap. But then it sat on my shelf as I waffled back and forth about whether it was really appropriate for a blazer or not. Even as I brought the fabric back out I wavered once more, and it sat in my room for a couple more days. And when I'd finally made the blazer, I decided it needed to be a couple of inches shorter--four and a half, to be exact.

The inspiration:

My trip to the X Generation store and it's amazing prints renewed my conviction to finally make up this one.

I decided that if I had seen this blazer in the store I would have loved it, but immediately after sewing it I was so frustrated with its little quirks that I put it back on my dress form to wait until morning. It was then that I tried it on, the smooth lining gliding over my arms, the print dancing as I buttoned it. I think it will do all right. Not really birds in flight, but maybe I'll call it flighty birds.

Read my review of this pattern at PatternReview.com.

The Umpa Jacket

Pattern: New Look's Separates #6035
Fabric: 2yds Fleece
Cost: $8

My grandfather, Umpa, was infamous in our family for his plaid blazers. It was only after he passed that I discovered that this was an actual fashion trend of the 1950s and not another manifestation of his light-hearted and goofy demeaner. His love for all things plaid, however, extended far beyond the red checked sportscoats: at Easter he could also be seen in a pastel blazer with matching bright yellow pants. He was a trendsetter, and there was nothing our teasing could do to dissuade him from one of his biggest fashion statements.

I, on the other hand, had been wanting to make a bird-print blazer, and I had just found the perfect fabric after being obsessed with the Topshop version for months. I had the lining and everything, and so when I saw the NewLook pattern for less than $5 I knew it would be perfect. 

But then, for no reason, this plaid flannel jumped out at me at the discount fabric store on my way home. It has nothing to do with the careful, tailored blazers I've been trying to cultivate. And yet there I was, at the check-out counter, buying 2 yards of cast-off plaid flannel. So this is a nod to my Umpa, whose spirit guided me towards this gaudy design. And in the end, I love it! It's warm and cozy and yet still a little bit put together. Best of all, it let me try out my new pattern before cutting into my birdy print (or at least that's my excuse).

Read my review of this pattern on PatternReview.com and check it out on BurdaStyle!

Update: As further proof of what I called my grandfather's lighthearted and goofy demeaner, I would like to say that he had invented his own language. It's similar to piglatin, and my father has translated some of the above into Alfalfa Language for your reading pleasure:

Myfal grandfelfalfather, Umelpalfa, was infelmelfamous in ourfal filfamililfy for his plafalalfad blailfazers. It was only afaltalfaster he palfalassmelfed that I discalmolfovered that this was an alfalfactualfal famfalmalfashion trelfend of the 1950s and nolfolfatt anomfelalfother malfanifalfestalfation of his lifalight-hearfarlarfarted and gofalaloofy delmeanalfeather...

Uh-oh: looks like the Alfafa Language is up for some family debate! My aunt chimes in with her version of the family tradition:

Malfi gralfandfalfather, Ulfumpalfa, wulfuz infelmelfamous infil alfar falamily folfor hilfiz plalfad blelfazers.  Ilfit wulfuz olfonly alfafter hilfiz palfassing thalfat Ifi dilfilsculfuvered thalfat thilfiz wulfuz alfan alfalfactualful falashion trelfend ulfuv thulful filifties alfand nolfot ulfanulfuther malfanilfestelfation ulfuz hilfiz lalfight-halfarted alfand gulfoofy dilfilmilfeanor.

Glasses and Gold Blazer

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Lined Jackets in 3 Lengths #M6172

Fabric: Echino cotton/linen Ni-co Glasses in Gold

Cost: $45

Inspired by my first go at a blazer and some pics I saw online, I decided to try a second one in a crazy print. I am always captivated by the quilting cottons at the fabric store, and fell for this beautiful Japanese print. I don't wear glasses, so I guess this was my subconscious way of getting in on the thick-rimmed glasses craze. Fun and functional and perfect for work or the weekend.

I also took another go at the hong kong seam finish, but this time only for the center back seam. The others I left hidden with french seams.

Here are some more details:

So excited to wear this to work this week :)

You can read the review of this pattern at PatternReviews.com.
And check it out on BurdaStyle!

~~~

Because I am loving this jacket pattern, I wrote down some directions for future use, which you can use as well (I already saw some red fabric in the store and was thinking... Christmas blazer with white piping!) If you go this route, you'll have to pardon my unconventional construction techniques... I'm not trained in any sort of way, like to do just what works for me :)

Alterations while cutting (to fit my measurements): Taper the side seams that lead in to the arm hole so that they are 1/2" smaller at the arm hole. When cutting the front piece, extend the curved portion so it is even with the bottom. I also took the sleeves in 1/2" at each seam, but that was better for a stretchy sweatshirt than a cotton/linen blazer.

Next time, I think I'll also make the front and front sides all one piece, as well as the back and back sides--I don't need something so fitted.

Cut: Cut two extra front pieces, or cut them from contrasting fabric (if from contrasting fabric, cut one of the collar pieces from contrasting fabric as well). The pieces shall be referred to as front piece, collar, contrasting front piece, and contrasting collar.

Step 1: Sew the darts on the four front pieces (the two front pieces plus the contrast front pieces). Fuse interfacing to the contrast front piece and the contrast collar.

Step 2: Sew the back, back side, and side sections together. If doing a french seam, sew them together wrong sides together at 1/4" seam allowance (I did the one back seam regular for a hong-kong finish and the rest as french seams). Try the jacket on before completing the second step of the french seam.

Step 3: Pin two of the front pieces to the jacket. Try the jacket on and adjust fit as needed (mine needed the back piece adjusted at the armhole).

Step 4: Finish the french seams by turning the seam so that right sides are together, and sew at 3/8" seam allowance.

Step 5: Right sides together, sew the front piece to the back piece at the shoulder seam (don't sew the side seams yet), leaving 5/8" open at neck. With the right side of contrast front piece facing down, lay it on top of the inside of the jacket. Sew together at the shoulder seam, leaving the same 5/8" space free. Repeat for other side. (Basically, you are sandwhiching the back shoulder piece between the front and front lining, right sides together.)

If you haven't done your hong kong finishes yet, now is the last chance to do so.

Step 6: Sew the collar (not the contrast collar) to the jacket along the neck across the back and two front pieces, right sides together matching notches. Leave 5/8" at each side open.

Step 7: Pin the contrast collar to the collar along the top, right sides together. Sew, leaving 5/8" open at either end.

Step 8: Ok here comes the weird contortionist part. Making sure the collar and contrast collar are aligned, pin the contrast collar to the contrast front piece (as was done with the collar and front piece). Do not pin the contrast collar to the back piece. Repeat for other side. To make sure that nothing gets twisted, start by pinning the contrast collar to the contrast front piece wrong sides together, then twist to get right sides together.

Step 9: And here's the part we've all been waiting for, when it all comes together. Right sides together, pin down the side of the collar and contrast collar, across the remaining raw edges of the front piece and contrast front piece, and down the side of the front pieces. Sew down the side of the collar, don't sew the inside corner, and then resume with the front pieces, sewing all the way around the curve at the bottom and stop just after the dart.

(Not sewing the inside corner will allow you to turn the piece right side out without any puckering--try it the other way, you'll see! It will get sewn together with the topsitching).

Step 10: Trim the inside and press all the way around. Press the remaining raw edge of the contrast collar under 3/8" and stitch in the ditch on the other side to secure it.

Step 11: Starting at one bottom side at the dart, edge stitch all the way around the front pieces and the collar, all the way to the other front piece to the dart.

Now, treating the front and contrast front pieces as one, sew the to the side piece with a french seam. At the bottom, make sure the hem is folded up.

Step 13: Time to attach the sleeves! French seam the sleeve pieces together, and french seem 'em to the garment.

Step 14: Hem the bottom by turning it under twice. To hold my narrow allowance in place, I basted it on the wrong side, then flipped to the front to do my topstitching.

Step 15: Hem the sleeves. They are super long, so either trim them or have a super wide hem. Because wide hems are difficult on my machine, I turned the sleeve inside out and stuck my machine foot through the hole to sew in place. Can also use above basting technique.

And  a blazer is made!