Summer Travel Dress (Reversible!)

Pattern:  McCall's #7591
Fabric: bamboo knit (maroon side) and modal knit (black side) from Harts Fabric
Cost: $75

Greetings from beautiful Amsterdam! After a short stop in Paris, we are now settled in for a month in the Dutch capital. So far we have worked on learning to ride bikes the Dutch way, taken long walks in the park, bought the wrong things at the supermarket, and snuck in some work. There has been a bit of a heatwave this week and the city has really come alive with children playing in the canals, picnics in the grass, and lots of ice cream eating and beer drinking. 

The warm weather has also made me grateful for my new dress, McCall's #7591, which I finished just days before we flew over. I don't buy new patterns often, but I wanted something new and fun for my trip and gave myself free reign to pick whatever I wanted. This pattern is proving to be a popular one, and I've already seen a few people sew it up.

The best part about this dress though, and what makes it super travel-friendly, is that I made it reversible! When all the fabrics I liked were too sheer, my friend suggested that I fully line the skirt and choose to two different fabrics so I could wear it on either side. Brilliant! Even though I am traveling with a limited wardrobe, this detail makes it feel like I have more choices. I chose a wine-colored bamboo jersey similar to the pattern cover, and a more versatile black modal knit, both from Harts Fabric store in my hometown of Santa Cruz (there I am pictured below in my mom's backyard). 

To make the dress reversible, I cut two sets of bodice pieces instead of a bodice and lining, and I cut a second set of skirt pieces. I also had to make sure to cut and sew the skirt pieces so they were mirror images of each other. After some trial and error with the construction, I found it worked best to fully construct the lined/double-sided bodice, and then sandwich it between the two skirts and sew the waist seam. I then sewed the skirts together at the hem, pulled the dress through to the right side through a small remaining hole, and hand stitched the last little bit. There was definitely some origami in there, but in all it has a nice clean finish. 

While I love the final result, the pattern did require some tweaking to make it look like the image on the envelope. The bodice straps were very long, even before adding the skirt pieces. My bra showed through the arm hole under my arm, and the neckline hung much lower than on the model. I ended up taking 1 1/2 inches off the front of the straps and 1 1/4 off the back straps, which brought it up to a much better length.  I think part of the issue may be that the dress is designed "for knits or wovens," which is an odd choice and could be causing some of these fit issues. 

I also took an inch off the length of the bodice at center front where it crosses over because it was hanging much lower than the rest of the bodice. Finally, I tacked the cross-over together at center front with a few stitches so that it wouldn't flap open and reveal my whole chest! I really love the drapey end result, but I'm not sure the pattern had the best design. 

For reference, this is is view C, which has more bra-friendly straps and is cropped just below the knee. I think I extended the slit a bit higher. It has been perfect for these hot days, and is super comfy, even for bike riding around the city. 

If anyone out there is reading from Amsterdam, we'll be here a few more weeks and I'd love to meet up for beer/coffee drinking or fabric shopping! Then we're off to Germany, Vienna, Prague and Copenhagen :)


Will It Work for Me?

While I love sewing clothes to my exact specifications, I think you will agree that one of the major downsides to sewing is that you don't get to "try before you buy." You might make a muslin or even sew up a few versions, but all of this takes a considerable amount of work before you can decide if a new style or fabric will work for you. 

Personally, I have the habit of talking myself into something based on a single flattering example. I convince myself that a style I've seen on Pinterest will be my dream outfit, or that a cute pattern will work for me. I then get all caught up in the details of how to reproduce the look without really stopping to think about how the proportions, drape, or style will suit my tastes. It isn't until I'm most of the way finished (and the point when I am most exhausted and frustrated with my sewing), that I try it on and see that it is all wrong. If this were a dressing room at a store, I would never buy this garment!

I think there are probably a number of ways to avoid this problem. The more you sew and think about clothes, the more you figure out what works for you without all the trial and error. To test out new styles, I've also heard of people popping into their favorite store to try them on first before making something up. Lately, however, I've been trying out what I call the pessimist route. Rather than imagining how great a garment will look on me, I try to imagine all the ways it might look wrong. It's not as fun, I know, but it has helped me think of places where I might go wrong and fix it before I even get there. 

Take the new ruffled sleeve trend. I wasn't that on board with it until I saw a beautiful young woman in Paris wearing a shirt similar to the one I recreated above. It looked stunning! It had a dropped shoulder detail with wide ruffles hanging off the ends in a light shade of pink. It was boxy in a crisp fabric, and wouldn't be that hard to recreate for myself. What beautiful inspiration!

But before trying it on myself, I wanted to see what it looked like through pessimist eyes. For one, that color is not great on me. Anything too close to my skin tone and I start to get washed out. Secondly, I'm not so keen on boxy shirts lately, and adding ruffles might make me look like a linebacker. Still, it would be fun to have a shirt with an interesting detail to spice up my main t-shirt and pants look. 



Above are some modifications I'm considering. A more neutral color such as blue or black would fit better into my wardrobe without washing out my skin. To tone down the volume, it would also be interesting to try this shirt in a soft knit rather than a fabric with a crisp hand. I would have to play around with the length and angle of the ruffles, but this top could work for me. At least it has a better chance now that I've thought through some of the details.

What do you do to make sure something will work for you before you take time and effort to sew it up? 

Me Made May Weeks 3 and 4

The end of this month was spent packing up my clothes to go to Europe! While a few things have made it into my bag for the three-month trip, it's absolutely amazing to me how many clothes I actually have. There were boxes and boxes packed away for storage, and that's after a ruthless purge and a trip to the Goodwill. It's interesting to go through your closet and think, "Would I buy/make this today?" Unfortunately, for many of those items the answer would be no. Maybe the style has changed, maybe it wasn't right to begin with, or maybe I've just grown bored of it. It will be interesting to see if I get sick of my favorite clothes that I packed for the trip, and how many of those that I didn't pack I will miss. It definitely makes you think about your closet, what you really need, and what you can live without.

Because a lot of this month was spent at home, my outfits aren't the most imaginative. Also, I want to say I didn't actually wear the same gray RTW t-shirt a zillion times, but I forgot what boring stay-at-home shirts I did wear and didn't want to Photoshop anything new.

At the end of the month though, I went to Vegas! I did do some sewing for that, and will share my new swimsuit soon :) It's been a busy month, but well worth it!



Monday: Hudson pajamas and RTW tee
Tuesday: striped sweater and RTW tights
Wednesday: Mandy Boat tee and second-hand jeans
Thursday: second-hand jeans and RTW tee, plus me-made red bralette
Friday: second-hand dress and lace bralette
Saturday: black dress
Sunday: second-hand crop top and RTW skirt






Monday: RTW tee with RTW tights
Tuesday: white ruffle top and black Ginger jeans
Wednesday: Hudson pants and RTW tee
Thursday: turtleneck and black pants
Friday: turtleneck and black pants
Saturday: high-wasted bathing suit, homemade bathrobe, plus Tania culottes
Sunday: bathing suit

Monday: cutout dress paired with Tania culottes
Tuesday: striped sweater and RTW tights
Wednesday: RTW shirt and black pants



More Hudson Pants

Pattern: True Bias's Hudson Pants
Fabric: French terry
Cost: $8


 It's no secret that I love the Hudson Pants pattern. I have made myself a pair, made the men's version, and even made a chambray version. If I had kids I'd have probably made them a pair.
At this rate, I've made one a year since they came out in 2014.

As pajamas, I wore my original pair regularly. Nightly. After more than two years the fabric was starting to run bare, so I decided I needed to replace them. I don't love having to remake something when I've already made a perfectly good one, but luckily this patterns is so fast and has just enough fun details to make it interesting.


The French terry I used had less stretch than my last version, which was more of a jersey knit. I was surprised that they fit a bit more snug, but I think now they look more similar to other versions I've seen online. They also loosen up after a couple of wears. 

They have already become a fast favorite. In the six months since I've made them, they've been with me to the desert, to Christmas, and countless study sessions on my couch. They are the perfect pajamas!



Me Made May Week 2

This week's Me Made May includes one very special non-me-made piece of clothing: my graduation robe! The robe itself was a horrible, hot, poorly sewn polyester thing that I borrowed from the school. No way was I going to pay $80 for THAT. But it symbolized the end of my two-year Master's degree in Public Policy from Mills College, and it was a very proud, very joyous day. The graduation itself was also one of the best I've ever attended. The speakers were phenomenal and included local elected official Lateefah Simon as well as 95-year old Betty Reid Soskin, a life-long fighter for social justice and the nation's oldest park ranger and an award recipient from President Obama. There was also confetti, mariachis, and my amazing friends and family. I am so thankful for all of the support I have received over the last few years!



And here's what I wore the rest of the time:

Hudson pajamas (to be blogged soon!) and tee
Lazo trousers with second-hand white tee and scarf
striped turtleneck, black pants (twice! lol)
Freemantle coat with second-hand striped tee and leggings
pink lace dress (made over six years ago!)
black Ginger Jeans and Tessuti Fave Top
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