Cape-Sleeve Top

I have finally made my way to the end of my planned sewing list, leaving my mind to wander over the possibilities of fabrics and patterns in my stash. I'm not worried - this is when quarantine creativity kicks in. I can finally start dreaming about what I want to do with a remnant I've been saving or that fabric my mom gave me. I try to always sew things that I think will get worn and have a place in my wardrobe. This time, those creative musing paid off with my new cape-sleeve top! 

Pattern: self-drafted using my t-shirt block

Fabric: 1.5 yds fleece-backed sweater knit

Cost: free

I have been obsessed with making a top with cape-like sleeves for a while now. My Pinterest history shows that I pinned this photo of Victoria Beckham in one in 2015. I'm pretty sure hers is just a cape over a top (maybe a two-piece set?), but I wanted an integrated piece (edit: turns out it's this Balenciaga piece). Ever since then I have occasionally pinned more inspiration or looked around for a pattern but never found anything that was quite right. 

The more I thought about it, the more complicated it got. You know what else I wanted? I was set on the idea that it shouldn't look like a cape from the back. Too much like a superhero. Too extra. I wanted something with the cape look in the front, but the look of a regular sleeved top in the back. And I just couldn't wrap my head around how to do that! 

But you know what? I finally figured it out! When you have months alone to your thoughts, even the most persistent problems seem to work themselves out. Here's a view from the back - actual sleeves!

After years of musing, the construction popped into place in my head one night based on a few key ideas. The first was that I needed a cape or yoke in the front that then attaches to regular set-in sleeves at the back. The way to do this is to draft half a set-in sleeve by folding the sleeve piece down the center and keeping just the back half. The sleeve gets set into the back armscye. This creates a long shoulder seam that extends from the neckline down toward the elbow. In the front, I drafted a yoke piece (similar to this top). I then connected front to back along the long shoulder seam similar to how you would assemble a normal cape. 

The second issue is what to do with the underarm of the back sleeve. In a normal top, the back underarm wraps around the arm and is sewn to the front underarm, creating a tube for your arm to go in. But we only have a back undearm - no front piece. So I re-drafted the sleeve to attach to the side seam: instead of having the sleeve extend out the arm toward the wrist, I continued extending the sleeve down toward the waist. During construction, it gets sewn into the side seam between the shirt back and front. The full effect is that the cape drapes across the front, wraps around the arm, and is attached to the back at the armscye and down the side seam. 

Does that make sense? No? I knew I would need to drape it on my dress form to get it right and test it out. I started with my t-shirt block and cut out a half sleeve from muslin to drape on the form. Here's what I got:   

And here's what it looks like on:

As you can see, it was a bit of a mind twister. In the end, however, there were relatively few pieces and it's not that much harder to sew up than a basic t-shirt. Honestly, if I were a pattern maker (which I'm not) this would be my ideal pattern - an interesting shirt that takes a lot of conceptualizing but isn't that hard in practice to sew up once you work out the mechanics. As you can tell, I was quite pleased with myself. See how you get that cape look when I bend my arm but without the full superhero cape in the back? Love it! 

The top is made from a fleece-backed sweater knit that I think my mom gave me. It feels really nice and worked out really well for this project. It is drapey with a lot of stretch but still has good weight and structure. It is incredibly comfortable to wear and I must admit I do feel a bit like Victoria Beckham when I put it on. I was a bit worried that the sleeves wouldn't allow for much arm movement but it's actually fine. The only thing this top is not good for is layering under any type of coat or jacket!

Now that I have finally finally worked out how to do it, it would be easy to make again. Unfortunately, it's the type of garment you probably only need one of in your wardrobe. Perhaps I'll think up another clever way to make it up, but for now I'm enjoying that I actually did it!

Note: This post contains affiliate links. 

Jeans

Ok, enough of the fancy outfits for the summer. Time for something practical - jeans! My mom gifted me some quality denim with a small amount of stretch for my birthday in July and I quickly sewed up this pair my using my pants block.

Pattern: My Mambo No. 5 jeans block

Fabric: 2 yds denim

Cost: gift

I think for now I'm finally happy with my pants block and done tweaking it. It's only taken me like three years! The block is for a fitted pair of jeans or pants and takes into account my hip to waist ratio, full bum, knock knees, and all my other little fitting quirks. I call it "Mambo No. 5" because it is a little bit of all the patterns I've tried: Ginger, Misty, Clover, etc. I think I'm really funny.

The pattern is not always adaptable to style changes like a higher waist, fuller legs, or other styles (I have other patterns for that) but this is my favorite silhouette and also the hardest to fit, so it's nice to finally have something down. 

I had originally planned for them to be a bit more of a relaxed fit. Here they are straight out of the wash - they do relax some with wear. 

The most fun part of these jeans was designing the pocket. I went with a random scattering of little stars.

As you may have noticed, I'm always wearing a new top in these photos. It's McCall's #7810. I really love it on the model, but she's got a much fuller figure than me and I just feel like I don't quite fill it out. This is even after sizing down to sew it in a knit rather than a woven fabric. And while the bust feels oversized, I probably made the waistband piece a bit too fitted. And then the white fabric is a bit sheer. I have already donated it. You win some, you lose some!

Hope you all are enjoying your fall! We had a week of cooler weather where I busted out my sweaters, but now we're back to 80 degree days - warmer than most summer days for us!

A Trio of Tops

We are well into January by now, but during that last week of December bookended by the holidays, I stole some quiet time to relax, sleep in, take the dog on walks, and do a bit of easy sewing. The result is a trio of tops that have already gotten a ton of wear. 

Pattern: my modified McCall's M6164

Fabrics (left to right): 1.5 yds each of chocolate chip rayon knit, remnant sweater knit, and another rayon knit, all from Stonemountain

Cost: about $15 each

In my new years reflections, it has become painfully obvious how much I love a good knit top. They are incredibly comfortable, easy to wear, and what I reach for most every day. Working remotely in an office I rent with a bunch of dudes, they are also perfectly casual for my daily life. Still, it was nice to freshen up my t-shirt game with some pieces in new prints and styles that make me feel good.

First up is a v-neck shirt that I originally paired with my velvet holiday pants. I wanted a casual counterpart to all the sparkle. While it is cut with the same pattern as the others, I added an inch to each side seam at front and back (four inches total) at the hem, grading back down to nothing at the underarm. The fit is now a bit more forgiving, similar to the Deer & Doe Plantain shirt. I love a good white T, and have already worn this one a few times. 

Next up is this incredibly soft sweater knit from the remnant pile at Stonemountain. The color reminds me of a favorite turtleneck from my childhood and I think works well with my skin tone. I wanted to do an oversized cowl for this one, but with limited fabric ended up just more of a small, floppy one. I also struggled with the hems, as the fabric didn't have as much recovery. They are now a bit wavy. Still, this is the warmest of the bunch and very soft and wearable.

This is by far the prettiest of the three and I have already gotten a ton of compliments. It is very fitted, but the fabric is thick and cushioned enough that it doesn't show every lump and bump. I like that I can dress it up or down, and look perfectly pulled together but comfortable. I didn't do the best with pattern placement, but those painterly flowers are so pretty it doesn't really bother me. A winner for sure!

All three were drafted with my modified McCall's M6164, which is now out of print and has hilariously wacky sleeve options. I made a few fit changes and traced my own version, complete with various neckline and sleeve length options. It makes it so easy to whip out a bunch of tees anytime the urge strikes. 

This Dress is Not the Star

Some of my favorite blogs are full of pretty dresses. The details! The fit! The colors! Worn to the grocery store or a fabulous party, they are the star of the show. But sometimes you need a dress that takes a back seat. That plays support for your favorite coat, or bright shoes, or sparkly necklace. For me, this is that dress.

Pattern: basic t-shirt block 
Fabric: 1.5 yds synthetic blend ponte
Cost: $5

The dress is drafted from my basic t-shirt block. Since my t-shirt pattern ends at the widest part of my hips, all I needed to do to make it into a dress was extend it straight down to my desired length. The end result is fitted but not too tight, just like my favorite t-shirts. Made up in a stable black ponte, it is perfect for work or a night out under my favorite accessories.

The other great thing about a simple t-shirt dress is that the whole thing took just a few hours to make. In fact, I sat down to cut out a top when I realized I could squeeze the dress out of the same fabric, too. A couple of seams later and I was wearing it out to a movie that afternoon! It is very rewarding to get such a functional garment with so little effort. I guess it is my LBD.

So why even blog about such a simple garment? Just a little reminder to myself that I can get a lot wear out of such a simple, easy piece. And another stretchy win for holiday parties and eating!

Fall Outfit

♫ Fall is here, hear the yell. Back to school, ring the bell♫ ...  Well this graduate is actually still on the job hunt, but you get the idea.

Pattern: basic t-shirt block 
Fabric: 1.5 yds jersey knit

This shirt, which was actually cut out in the spring, finally got sewn up and found its place in the wardrobe this fall. It is from the same TNT custom-fit pattern as my previous turtleneck, which I wore all over rainy Europe this summer.

The fabric is a buttery soft cotton jersey from Stone Mountain in Berkeley, and what I love about it is that it is thin without being transparent. While Mr. Made isn't a big fan of turtlenecks, even he admitted that it was very soft as we snuggled up on the couch.

The deep red gives a nice pop of color without being too bright in my wardrobe, and goes really well with my various pants. If you're wondering, I made the ones in the picture a few years back and still think they are some of my best-fitting.

I could see this becoming my new wardrobe uniform this season...

Back to Basics

Pattern: modified McCall's 6164
Fabric: 1.5 yds jersey knit
Cost: $18

Everywhere I looked this winter, turtlenecks were back in style. I'd see them at professional events, running around town, and in ads of people snuggled up at home. At first, I resisted. I still remember wearing them in elementary school, when they were for keeping warm instead of making fashion statements. But the more I saw them, the more enticing they looked. And I did need some more not-so-basic basics. So finally, finally (now that it is almost summer) I managed to make my first one.

I took this as an opportunity to refine my t-shirt pattern block using McCall's 6164 as a base. If you click on the link, you'll see that the pattern is horribly out of date. Like early 2000s when big 80s shoulders were circling back in style sort of out of date. Literally, there are six views wth different versions of puffy shoulders. But underneath it all is a really solid basic pattern that I've found fits me really well. The indies have proliferated basic tee patterns in recent years, but once you've found one that fits you're set.

To make it a true block for me, I made a few small tweaks. First, I did a sloped shoulder adjustment, which eliminates a lot of the bunching under the underarm. There are still a few small drag lines around the bust, which I think I could eliminate by shortening the front at the side seams and stretching as I sewed, but it's just a t-shirt after all.

The other adjustment I made was a swayback adjustment. It could probably go a bit further, but it helped to eliminate most of the excessive drag lines in the back. I used this method.

Finally, I threw in some neckline variations, along with sleeve cutlines. I created separate templates for just the top of the pattern including boatneck, crewneck, and turtleneck. I also considered doing a cowl neck but I decided I don't even like cowl necks that much and it would require redrafting more of the front than I cared to do. I also threw in a piece for a ruffle at the shoulder from the original pattern just for fun.







I spent a weekend day drafting these all out, and then cut out the fabric for two turtlenecks, plus this Mandy boat tee and a Presto! popover top. I'm really excited to have this in my arsenal now, as it makes it really easy to crank out a few more tops whenever I want.

The fabric is this great ribbed knit I got at Stone Mountain. I was looking for something that wasn't a solid color but also wasn't a wild print. I'm not so in to the wild prints. It's got great recovery and has a little bit of substance to it so that it's not opaque.

After the cut-out pieces sat in a basket for a few weeks, I finally sewed this up last night and have been wearing it ever since. It is perfect for running around town, will be a good option for work and, oh yes, it is great for snuggling. This will be making it in my suitcase for our Europe trip this summer. Now to plan the rest of my vacation sewing...

Office Knits

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164

Fabric: knit

Cost: $5

This shirt is made with bargain bin fabric, barely enough, and not even a full cowl, but it's my new favorite work shirt.

This top is inspired by my very chic coworker, who always wears sleek tops and looks so sophisticated. To make it, I cut out my stand-by McCall's M6164, doubling up on the front and back because the fabric was very sheer. I didn't have quite enough for a full cowl a-la-Renfrew, but for now the drapey turtleneck suits me just fine.

While I've been working a lot of office blouses, I've also come to the realization that knit tops are waay more comfy and can also be made office-appropriate. I think I'll be making more in the future!

Polka Dot Peplum

Pattern: my Peplum Top Tutorial
Fabric: gold polka dot jersey from sewing swap
Cost: swapped with The Quirky Peach

Last Monday was my birthday, and to celebrate I gave myself the afternoon/early evening off and made a birthday top! This was also the first time in more than a month that I had a chance to sew since the move, so it was a celebration indeed!

The fabric is a gold polka dot jersey I scored as part of Kestrel's sewing swap courtesy of The Quirky Peach. No sooner had I lifted it out of the package then I knew that it was destined for a special-occasion top, the sort of event that you need a special little sparkly something. What I love about this top is that it's still casual enough for day to day, but made me feel special enough at dinner on my birthday.

This is the same top I did for my Peplum Top Tutorial, but in a much lighter fabric. I lowered the waist line by a little, because it sat just a tad too high before. I also changed the peplum from a full circle to a 3/4 circle. For instructions on how to calculate the measurements of a 3/4 circle, check out Fickle Sense's tutorial. It puckers a little at the neckline (I made the binding too tight) and I think I could have lowered the waistline futher still, but I don't care because I'm just happy to be sewing again!

The whole thing took around 2 hours to make, which left plenty of time to curl my hair, do a quick photoshoot on my new patio, and walk to dinner. It was a fabulous day all around!

To see what Sally of The Quirky Peach made with the fabric I sent her, check it out!

Peplum Ruffle Top

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164 + self-drafted rectangle ruffle

Material: knit jersey

Cost:b $5

After putting in a lot of sewing time fitting bras and pants, this was a quick and satisfying project to take on. In fact, not only do I think this ruffle peplum top is pretty darn cute, but it's extremely comfortable!

The details are simple: I cut a t-shirt using my trusty McCall's Misses' Tops M6164 pattern, cropping it at the waist. I then cut a big rectangle, gathered at the waist, and was done! Because I didn't have enough fabric to make a circle ruffle, it doesn't quite have the look of the classic peplum top, but I'll try that out next time. For now, I have worn it at least once a week because it is cute enough for work and play, and very soft and comfy.

Go Bears! + Tutorial

Pattern: my old t-shirt standby, McCall's Misses' Tops M6164

Fabric: jersey knit, bought at Mood! 

Cost: about $5

I am a bad alum. Come game time, I have a great job thanks to my diploma, lots of Cal friends, but no bear t-shirt! Luckily, a t-shirt is much easier to make than a diploma or new friends, especially if you sew! I'd also been dying to try making a cool printed t-shirt every since Cirque du Bebe made this amazing one for Vintage May. After reviewing my options for doing an image transfer, I decided to just sharpie it on there (although I still want to check out this Cirque du Bebe's recommendation for Lesley Riley TAP Artist Transfer Paper). The other fun thing about this shirt is that it's not the classic mascot, but rather my own take on the theme. Instructions for making a fabric bow-tie can be found here.

I have also been feeling a little experimental in my computer skills lately. Starting with this tutorial, I made my picture into a little sketch to highlight the shirt. If you're interested, give it a try! The instructions are for GIMP, a free Photoshop like software (although the instructions should work for Photoshop as well). For a tutorial on how to crop out the background and leave only the garment (for the bottom layer in the tutorial), check out this video.

Happy sewing!

The Boyfriend Tee

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164, without the bells and whistles
Fabric: double knit cotton leftover after my striped dress
Cost: remnants

I've made blouses and sun dresses and a retro bathing suit. But lately I just want to wear my boyfriend's shirts. They are soft and comfy and say funny things on them or come from cool places. So instead of stealing all his shirts, I decided to make myself one (and have already bought fabric for more...).

When I first started sewing in high school, I worked almost exclusively with knits. Don't get me wrong, they're not great for beginners. I sewed straight seams and the stitches popped. The hems rolled. But knits stretch so I didn't need a zipper, and they don't ravel at the unfinished edges. When I got a little better I started making more structured garments. I finished my seams. And shit got serious. Darts, invisible zips, scalloped edges. My last two projects felt like monumental works (I made a dancing .gif!). So it was about time to return to my roots. I've since honed my skills in working with knits, and this top took literally an hour and a half from start to finish.

Similar to my brother's shirt or my circle dress, a t-shirt is really just a front, back, and neckband. I use McCall's M6164 as my stand-by because it fits me well (and, in my brother's case, just a traced men's shirt). You run the whole thing through the serger and you're pretty much set. The neckband I always cut about an inch smaller than the neck, which works out perfectly. Oh, and this one has a pocket.

Without cover stitch, though, the only dilemma I've hit is how to hem the sleeves and bottom. My walking foot has been a big help in most cases, but I needed a stitch that wouldn't pop when stretched. I tried the twin needle but had a lot of trouble. In order for the stitch to not form a pintuck, you have to set the machine tension at zero. But when the tension is at zero, the bobbin thread doesn't zig zag back and forth between the two top threads, and keeps snapping. Apparently Oona (the newly-revealed TV-star!) recommended using a zig-zag stitch with the twin needle on Patty's blog (but then wouldn't it look like a twin zig-zag stitch?). For my brother's shirt, which was a very slippery rayon knit, I switched to a single needle and used a three-stitch zig-zag stitch. For this one, which is a lot thicker and could handle not puckering, I upped the machine tension and used the twin needle.

Do you have any tips and tricks for the twin needle on knits? I'm one step away from easy sewing!

You can read my review at PatternReview.com.

Casual, Magical Dress

Pattern: Self drafted from McCall's Misses' Tops M6164

Fabric: 1 1/2 yard rayon blend knit

Cost: $9

Bought for $6 a yard, I love this dress! It's long enough to make it a little different, shiny enough to dress up, and casually cut for any event. My friend calls it the Harry Potter Dress because of the colors, but I think it's just magical. The best part? It only took about two hours to make.

Posted on PatternReview.com.

Colors of the Wind Dress

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164 (bodice) and Mahaila's circle skirt formula (for a 3/4 skirt)
Fabric: 2 yds stretch knit
Cost: $9

I'm kind of pale, so I generally try to stay away from neutrals. But if a fabric grabs my attention on 2+ trips to the fabric store, I usually end up getting it, especially if it's in the sale sections. At $4.50 per yard, I couldn't resist. This dress has feathers and flowers blown across it, and reminded me of a very fall, American prairie sort of design. On this project I serged all the seams, using a coordinating color thread for the needle thread only. This worked out really well so that my white thread doesn't show through.

This is another circle skirt + top frankenpattern, a silhouette I can't seem to get enough of lately. I made this one a little longer so it's easy to wear to work. The fabric is soft and beautiful, and I got a ton of compliments. Check out Mahaila's pattern, it's just too easy!

You can read my review of this pattern at PatternReview.com.

Mustard Fall Dress

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164 (bodice) and Mahaila's circle skirt formula (for a 3/4 skirt)
Fabric: 2 yds stretch knit
Cost: $24

Mustard seems to be the color of the season. I searched and searched for the perfect shade at my local fabric store, but finally found the ideal color at Hart's Fabrics.


The design is based on and H&M dress that was out earlier this season, but I like mine a bit better. It has a 3/4 circle skirt rather than pleats, and the best part is that mine was cheaper than the H&M version! (Though some assembly required.)

This was my first full project on my serger after taking it in for a tune-up. I think I rushed a little bit, and the result is that some seams that had to be re-done and look a little home-ec. I also tried hemming it with the serger using this technique, to mixed results. Even with the tune-up I'm not quite sure my machine is up for it. My great idea though was to use matching thread for the needle thread only, so that the exposed thread on the hem matches the fabric. I think I will do this for all seams in the future.

Even after my mixed results, seeing it in photos make me really excited to wear this dress! 

You can read my review of this pattern at PatternReview.com.

Winter Casual Stripe Dress

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164, elongated
Fabric: 1 yd cotton knit
Cost: $18

With my original striped dress shrunk in the wash and beginning to come apart, I decided it was time to make up another. I bought this beautiful striped cotton knit on sale, and this being my third casual striped dress is literally took only about two hours from start to finish. This was greatly aided by my recent serger class, with everything going together really smoothly. It has a rolled hem and cuffed sleeves and collar.

(Please excuse the kinesio tape on my knee.)

You can read my review of this pattern at PatternReview.com.