
Because that part of my torso is so long, the key for me is not just to make my garments longer, but to actually lower the waistline by three inches. This is very important to ensuring proper fit, not just making sure that my belly button is covered, especially for any garment that has waist shaping, darts, etc that are meant to contour to the body.
While there have been entire books written on the subject, the following are some basic tips for adjusting your garments to fit properly.
Adjusting the waist:
Ensuring proper fit (how to read garment sizing):
Slimming or widening your garment:
While my waist proportions came as a surprise to me, I always knew that I had a smaller than average circumference around my bust and back. So while I may be a size 6 in most parts of a pattern, I might need to take it down to a size 4 near the bust. To adjust for this, I usually do not alter a pattern when I cut it, but rather take the garment in while I am sewing to avoid cutting off too much. To do this, I baste or pin the side seams together and then try the garment on. I'll then mark it with some pins (it helps to have a dress form for this), and take it in accordingly. To widen a garment, you must adjust for this before cutting your pattern piece. You can go up a size or two in the needed area, or cut the whole thing larger and take in your smaller assets using the technique above.
Making your garment taller or shorter:
Much like with the waist line, dresses, robes and pants usually have a line near the hem where the garment can be lengthened or shortened. Measure your body and then the pattern piece and adjusting accordingly.
When in doubt, especially for complicated pieces, make a muslin. I will be documenting my first attempt at this soon when I work up the Vogue pants.
Check out these directions on Burda Style.
How did you get dress form to open like that?
ReplyDeleteI have an adjustable dress form, so each piece can be adjusted. Then, I finagled it to get a bit taller ;) I think I had to reassemble it a bit so it would be longer.
Delete