Notes on Buttonholes:

Always purchase your buttons before making your buttonholes. For a machine like mine, the button fits right into the buttonhole foot and helps determine the length of the buttonhole. Try your button hole out on a swatch of fabric to make sure it is the right size for your button. Buttons of different thicknesses, even if they are the same diameter, need different size button holes.

Buttons should also be sewn on fabric that has been interfaced or at least three layers of fabric. When you are making your test swatch, make sure to use the same number of layers or add interfacing.

Also note that it takes more stitches for a machine to go back up the second side than it did for it to come down. Be careful of this to make sure that your machine is lining up its buttonholes correctly and that your second side does not fall short. This is another reason to make a test buttonhole and adjust accordingly.

Check out the tutorial on Burda Style

Square Buttonhole
Uses: This is your standard, go-to buttonhole

Rounded Buttonhole

Uses: This is for lighter weight fabrics because the diagonal stitches do a good job of securing themselves in the looser weave of the fabric.

Keyhole Buttonhole

Uses: This is for heavier fabric because the keyhole allows the buttonhole to stretch open farther in what may otherwise be a stiff, thick fabric.

Zig-Zag Buttonhole

Uses: This buttonhole is designed for stretch knit fabrics. The reinforced zig-zag allows the buttonhole to stretch with the fabric instead of staying rigid.

Reinforced Buttonhole

Uses: For when your buttonholes look wimpy and could use some backbone

Materials: Buttonhole twist, upholstery thread, or quilter's thread.

Step 1: Cut a length of buttonhole twist (or whatever you are using) that's more than twice the length of your button hole. Fold in half and loop around the back of your presser foot. This may vary by machine, so follow the directions in your manual.

Step 2: Bring the ends of the buttonhole twist under the foot and towards the front. Slide them in the guides at the front of your buttonhole foot. Again, this may vary by machine, so check your manual.

 Step 3: Sew your buttonhole as you normally would. I imagine this won't work as well for a rounded buttonhole or a keyhole buttonhole. The machine does all the work at this point.

Step 4: Once your buttonhole is complete, there should be a loop of buttonhole twist at the top of the buttonhole and two ends coming out the bottom. You can just trim the buttonhole twist thread off, or pull it through to the wrong side of the fabric and knot or sew securely.

Check out the tutorial on Burda Style.

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