Sutton Blouse

Pattern: True Bias's Sutton Blouse (pattern tester)
Fabric: 1.5 yds rayon challis
Cost: $15

This is True Bias's new pattern, the Sutton Blouse! You know I love me a kimono top, so it's no surprise I'm sporting another one here. Kelli drafted this out of a desire for more v-neck patterns, which I think can be more dressed-up and sexy than your every-day crew-neck. It also features an inverted back pleat, high-low slit hem, and a one-piece yoke detail. 

I made mine up in white with a red yoke, which is really quite sporty. However, after seeing Kelli's gorgeous single-color green version, I am totally envious and have plans to make one just like that next. The yoke gives you an opportunity to play around with color or just interesting seam details, which takes this top a notch above basic.


As a pattern tester, I sewed mine up in size 0, the smallest size. Because it's a loose-fitting top, I went with my bust measurements, where I often fall into a smaller size. The fit was not too snug at all, and in fact fit me a bit big in the shoulders (no surprise there, as that is another common adjustment for me). Since I made it up, Kelli took about an inch total from the ease and 1/4" at the neckline, which I think should make the fit even better on me. She also raised the neckline by a 1/4", and I might raise it even a bit more to suit my tastes. 

As for the other design details, I love the seaming and think it would add a lot of interest to even a black or dark-colored shirt. I am not a fan of high-low hems, but I know they are very popular right now, so that is another interesting design feature. And the back pleat ensures I will be able to ride my bike to work without ripping any seams - always a bonus for me!

Finally, I have to say how much I love Kelli's instructions. I think she does an excellent job of explaining every step of the way, right down to the stay stitching and seam finishes. While she rates the pattern "intermediate" because it is made for slippery drapey fabrics, I think her instructions would be perfect for a beginner looking to tackle a new pattern. 



The one thing I am struggling with for this top and a few others I've made recently is the fabric. After hearing a lot about rayon challis from other bloggers, I have made up a few shirts in it. Unfortunately, I have now also discovered it wrinkles like crazy. I originally thought rayon didn't wrinkle, but I am either mistaken or it depends on the blend and the weave. I've bought two different ones from different sources and had the same problem. Wear it while sitting for a few minutes and I get up looking like, as one Pattern Review member put it, a "wilted flower."

In thinking about the clothes I reach for most often in my closet, I have also realized that the ones that do not require ironing are easiest to wear. There's a Scout tee I have made out of some synthetic blend that I reach for almost every time, despite the fact that it doesn't breathe very well. So I have been on the hunt for some new fabric ideas. I did see a fabric labeled as "travel linen" at my local store that is sadly no longer there, and I am not opposed to buying fabrics with a hint of synthetics in them to prevent the wrinkles. Does anyone out there have any advice on nice drapey or shirting fabrics that are not as prone to wrinkles?? Thx in advance!!


9 comments:

  1. I love the bold colourblocking you used. I too avoid anything that wrinkles badly. I love silk the best for tops... crepe, noile, a silk/cotton blend. Or a poly crepe de chine... basically anything crepe, since the twist seems to help it drape and not crease.

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  2. I love the two toned look. Cool idea to do the yoke in a different color. I've sewn with some poly crepe fabric here lately and it has been nice to grab it out of the washer and not have to worry about any wrinkles. Although wrinkles don't bother me too much. I am a linen lover after all.

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  3. Really cute! Rayon challis does tend to wrinkle a lot. If you are buying in person you can just grab a fistful of the fabric, squeeze hard, then release and see how much it wrinkles. When I test the rayons at Hancock's like that, some are worse than others and I have no idea why.

    I think natural fibers and fabrics with loose weaves wrinkle more, so it's hard to find something natural and drapey and not wrinkly. If you find some mixed with polyester, I'd love to hear about it! Maybe a spandex would be easier to find?

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  4. Had another idea... double gauze? I think the multiple layers help with wrinkling.

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  5. I've been seeing this top pop up all over the place and yours is just as good as the rest. I agree with Katie that a crepe would serve you well to prevent wrinkling. Would love to hear the results of your no wrinkle fabric quest.

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  6. that's my biggest pet peeve with rayon challis! i love the stuff, but hate the wrinkling. crepe fabrics are far better at resisting wrinkles, and you can find it in rayon and silk. great stuff to work with. i haven't tried the poly crepe de chine yet, but i've been considering it lately!

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  7. Lovely!
    SSB https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees

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  8. It looks great with the pop I red! This blouse is so on my radar.

    I have a viscose blouse that wrinkles very lightly, if at all.

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  9. I agree with the poster up above about double gauze. Good quality voile or lawn has always been my go-to but I'm currently making a Scout Tee with some Cotton and Steel double-gauze AND I AM IN LOVE!!!!!

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