Fitting the Sewaholic Granville

Pattern: Sewaholic's Granville Shirt
Fabric: cotton double gauze
Cost: free - gift from mom :)

What does it mean to make a garment that fits? I've been pondering this question lately and it seems to me that there are two types of 'fit.' There's fit, and then there's Fit. Let me explain.

The first kind of fit is the one I focused on when I first started sewing. It is about what makes the garment comfortable and wearable. Could I get it over my head/pull the zipper up? Could I move my arms while wearing it? I think this is the most common conception of fit, and the one most beginner sewers (and shoppers!) focus on.

Lately, however, I have been thinking about something that I will call Fit with a capital F. Beyond the comfort and wearing ease of a garment, Fit focuses on drag lines, bunching fabric, and other things that make a garment truly look good when wearing. Slowly I am learning that, while a garment might fit in the sense that it is comfortable to wear, it doesn't truly Fit until until I've made corrections for my sloping shoulders (which cause bunching at the underarm), swayback (bunching at mid back), knock knees, etc. I have been a bit slow to develop an eye for this, but figuring out these adjustments has been truly improving my Fit.

This garment is another version of the Granville shirt from Sewaholic, lengthened into a tunic. While the fit was pretty good out of the envelope, I made a number of tiny adjustments to work on the Fit. This one includes a sloping shoulder and narrow shoulder adjustment, as well as a swayback adjustment. It probably isn't perfect, but to my eyes it is much improved from my first version.

Unfortunately, while I fixed the Fit I think I may have messed up the actual fit of the garment. D'oh! It is now a bit too tight across the back, and the arms are a bit tight as well. Oh well, you live and you learn and you make more Granvilles.

This fabric was a gift from my mom from Hart's Fabrics, which is located in my home town. She sent it in the mail with explicit instructions that I MUST incorporate the beautiful selvedge into the finished piece somehow. Yes ma'am!

I can't recall ever actually sewing with double gauze. It washes beautifully but is very shifty to sew with because you're dealing with two layers of loosely woven fabric. After making the front placket slightly wonky, I decided to spray starch the sleeve plackets for a better result. Yes, I like to make my mistakes FRONT AND CENTER before figuring it out. As a result, I have decided that this garment will have an intentionally hand-sewn look, as some of the topstitching is a bit wonky. In the soft gauze, I think it works well. And maybe next time I'll choose a design that doesn't involve topstitching on double gauze!

Clearly this shirt has been another learning adventure for me. Lately I've been very focused on the pattern drafting and fabrics of the clothes I wear, and learning a lot! As always, any fitting or fabric tips greatly appreciated ;)


  1. This looks fantastic!! I love that fabric and good job using the selvage! Your Mom must be happy!

  2. Great Post! thanks for the describing the difference between fit & Fit. It makes a lot of sense. Your shirt looks great on you, by the way.
    :-) Chris

    1. Thanks Chris! Wearing this shirt today actually ;)


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