Overalls

Pattern: Thread Theory's Lazo Trousers with inspiration from McCall's 7062 and BurdaStyle's Overalls 07/2016 #109
Fabric: ~2 yds wool suiting
Cost: free from Bay Area Sewists fabric swap :)

While I probably have mounds of more practical sewing to do, I couldn't help myself. I made a pair of overalls...   In truth I think I've been lusting after a pair for a while. I love making pants, and overalls seemed like a good quirky alternative to try out. And ever since I'd sewn the Lazo Trousers, I knew they would make a good base for the style I was going for - relaxed but still fitted. 

Of course, I couldn't just use the Lazo Trousers pattern because, well, it's a pattern for pants, not overalls. So a pattern hack was in order. I had an old McCall's overalls pattern, but they were very 80s with a boxy fit and side tie closure that I didn't like. So for good measure I threw in a third pattern, BurdaStyle Overalls 07/2016 #109, which Pauline had sent me in a BurdaStyle magazine. I suppose I could have used this pattern alone, but I trust the fit of my Lazo Trousers so much more than a new pattern, and I also wanted straps that came all the way to the front instead of tying at the shoulder. I somehow managed to mash together all three, along with a some ninja drafting, and came up with this design. 

The hardest part for me was figuring out the side closures. I couldn't quite conceive how to get the sides to overlap at the front and not have wide seam allowances all the way down the leg. I think what I should have done was raise the top of the pants up several more inches instead of using the waistband, and drafted a sort of fly at both sides. As pictured above, though, I ended up sewing up the sides of the pants and then overlapping the waistband pieces, which had to extend at the sides to be large enough. It's not a very elegant solution, but as these are casual pants and a first go at it I'm not overly concerned.

The top also has a few issues - I think the neckline got a little stretched or else needs to be a little narrower. And after everything was sewn up and basted together I realized I needed bust darts, so those were thrown in there a little haphazardly Luckily they are covered up by the pocket, and in black you really can't see much. 

The fabric by the way came from a few yards of wool suiting I grabbed at the end of the last Bay Area Sewists fabric swap. It was sitting dejected on a table ready to go in the donation bag when I scooped it up. I knew I could always find a use for some plain black wool. It looked like it had already had another project cut from it, but with some creative layout I managed to cut all the pattern pieces I needed. 

 So far I've worn these out to drinks and taking the dog on walks and am very pleased with them. The wool isn't scratchy at all, and the color makes them a little more subtle than jeans overalls. I made need to make the back less fitted though as they are a little tight vertically when I am stretching down to get something. Overall though a fun go at something new.