Bra Quest 2013: The Vintage Bra

Pattern: Mrs Depew's 1940s French Bra #2014

Fabric: interlock knit

Cost: $6

Finally, my first bra test! After gearing up for my bra quest, finding my size, testing some department store bralettes, and picking my patterns, I made up my first muslin! This is the vintage 1940s reproduction from Mrs Depew, which I chose because of its vertically seamed cups and similarity to some of the bralettes I have been coveting online. 

From the pattern picture, however, it was hard to tell exactly what the bra would look like made up, so I just bought the pattern and dove in. While slightly different than I anticipated (I thought there would be a full band under the cups), this bra actually worked out quite well for my first try, with a few modifications. Here's my process:

1. Re-drafted pattern pieces so that the four darts all became seams

2. Sewed cups together

3. Sewed cups to bridge and back strap

4. Finished top and bottom the raw edges with fold-over elastic; added straps and closure

Here's a close-up of the seams. The whole thing does look very neat and tidy, if I do say so myself!

Because I do have some practice making bathing suits, the whole thing came together in just a few hours, and is actually very comfortable. The fabric is an interlock knit, which gives it some softness and stretch yet is still firm enough to hold everything in place.

However, what it has in comfort it's missing in shape. While it's surprisingly not bad for my first attempt (there's no pulling or tugging), it fits more like a sports bra and doesn't provide much lift or curve. In fact, it has much more of a flattening effect on me. Part of this is due to the fit - the bridge does not lay flat on my chest as it should, and believe it or not I think I need a little more curvature in the cups. The pattern says it's multi-sized, yet only has adjustment lines for the length of the back of band, so it is definitely an A/B-cup pattern and I wouldn't recommend it for a larger gal. 

My next bra muslin will be traced off of a ready-to wear bra, so we'll see how that fit turns out next week! I've also started looking at fabric for making up the final bra, and am loving Summerset's bra kits, which seem like an affordable way to get something nice. Be back with more next week!