Fabric Choices for Pants

I've got another pair of pants on the books, and am still philophisizing about fit, fabric, and more.

Pattern: Mambo No. 5 personal pants block
Fabric: 1.5 yds tretch cotton twill
Cost: $20

For this pair, I significantly altered the crotch curve on my usual block, as it was still pulling down slightly in center back. This time, I bought a flexible ruler and used that to take my crotch measurements. I also added a bit more room in the thighs, although I think I'll take that back out again on my next pair.

This pair feels decidedly more trouser-like that my other pairs. It also seems to have quite a few more wrinkles, leading me to reflect a bit on how fabric affects the fit of a pair of pants. The weave is obviously an important factor, with tighter weaves fitting more snuggly. But drape is also really important and something that I have often overlooked. Compare below the Robert Kauffman stretch suiting on my Lazo trousers (left) to the lightweight plain weave stretch woven on my Mambo no. 5 pants (center) to this slightly heavier pair of stretch twill from today (right). 

All of this is to say that this fabric, in particular, seems to be giving me more wrinkles than a drapier or stretchier version of similar pants. Rather than adjust my block to try to remove all of these wrinkles, I think I'll just select a different fabric next time. I've already re-purposed a similar weight twill as pants for the Mr., who's not quite nearly as picky as me about pants wrinkles. 

That said, I have been getting a lot of use out these and feel they have a bit more of an "office" vibe for meetings and the like. And with a bit of stretch, they are comfy for all day wear, too! 

1 comment:

  1. you are a pants wizard! but what I noticed today are the shoes. I want! so cute


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