Printed Drape Top

Pattern: Burda Style Magazine Dress 01/2011 #125
Fabric: wool blend knit
Cost: $11.25


This is one of those pieces that took on a life of its own as I made it. Because the pattern is so unusual, it was almost impossible to plan out how the print would work, so the design came together only as I sewed up the final seams. It turned out to be a very busy print, so I decided to leave off the skirt and just wear it as a top.

The fabric itself is soft and warm, and the top is perfectly comfortable. I wouldn't, however, try reaching your hands anywhere above your bellybutton; it is not a very practical piece. Fun nevertheless.

The challenge of this garment is following the pattern. In classic Burda style, there are no pictures to accompany the always vague instructions, and because it is not a very traditional construction (e.g. sew side seams of skirt together, attach waistband), it was pretty hard to figure out. I had to use every bit of information out there: the Burda picture of the finished garment, the line drawing, and cooi’s Jersey Drape Dress (and how I wish Burda would stop putting necklaces and belts on models to disguise problematic lines). For those about to brave this pattern--it is fairly simple if you know what you're doing--I documented the steps I followed, complete with pictures. Who knows, I might even make it up again as a dress.

Read my review of this pattern at PatternReview.com and check it out at BurdaStyle!



Directions:

Sew the skirt back to the skirt fronts, right sides together. Don't sew the front seam of skirt fronts together quite yet (or do like I would have done and eliminate the front seam on the skirt all together by making the skirt front all one piece).

Making sure to transfer all the markings to the pattern pieces (most importantly numbers 4 and 5), lay the top pieces out as shown (one of two sides is pictured).

Fold the bottom/side part up so that the "5s" are touching.
Fold the top down so that the "4s" are touching and the two folded pieces lie flush, creating the center front seam. The opening below the "5" will become the sleeve opening. The side with the "4" becomes the vertical front seam.
Each piece should now look something like this:

Sew the center back seam of the top pieces together and sew the top pieces together again at the vertical front seam. As far as I can tell, the center back seam runs from the bottom all the way up the back to the top, and the vertical front seam is located between the two notch markings on the front (although I found it necessary to sew down a little farther). According to the instructions, the vertical front seam should be sewn together with the front seam on the skirt so that it is all one seam down the front.



Once the front and back seams have been sewn, you will want to finish the raw edge of the neck by folding it under. This is what the neck looks like before it is sewn under (for illustration purposes the garment is pictured without the center back seam sewn).


As far as I can tell, the neck is done by folding the angled tab at the top down, wrong sides together, so that the sides lie flush. With the center back seam already sewn, fold the tab down so that the seam on the tab lines up with the seam on the garment. I continued to fold the edge under, leaving less and less allowance as I got towards the front of the garment. It worked well enough. Stitch with a twin needle and trim the excess fabric.

To finish, sew the top of the skirt to the bottom of the top, or leave the skirt off to to make a top. I left the sleeves and hem unfinished, because knits don't ravel.

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