Passing through the Darkest Night

This week, we passed through the darkest night of a very dark year toward the light of the new year. As the days start to get longer, I find I have much to celebrate. We have come through a very hard year and discovered strengths we didn't even know we had. At the same time, we grieve the losses around the world due to COVID and hope we can begin the process of healing in the months to come. 

This year, we have chosen to celebrate at a distance, staying home and cooking food and watching movies, with an outdoor picnic with family on Christmas Eve. In our apartment, we decorated one of the houseplants with lights and stuck a few presents under it. At this point, half of the gifts are just bottles of wine ;) I also have a new skirt to show you that is just as warm as the season itself. 

Pattern: self-drafted

Fabric: 2 yds velvet

Cost: gift

I picked up this fabric in the summer at the only in-person fabric shopping I've done all year. I loved the rich berry color and, while I didn't know what I'd do with it, I knew it had to be mine. I sewed it up before Thanksgiving as a festive outfit to wear for the holidays. 

After looking through my stash, I found a had some A-line and circle skirts, but nothing quite like what I wanted. I decided to draft my own 3/4 circle skirt, with just the right fullness. However, the joke's on me because I realized my calculations were off. The front and back are each drafted with a center seam and I realized after making it that EACH half was enough to make a 3/4 skirt, meaning with both panels together I had made a 1 1/2 circle skirt - even fuller than a full circle. No matter, I like the final result and all its volume. If you're looking for similar volume, I love circle skirts (and all their fractional variations) because they aren't gathered at the waist, reducing bulk there. So you get all of the fullness at the hem with none of the bunching around the waistband. 

The other thing that's different about this skirt is that the front and back actually have different volumes. And this part WAS on purpose. I have a much fuller backside and sometimes find that circle skirts add a little too much volume back there. So the front is drafted with two panels equalling 3/4 of a circle while the back is drafted with two panels equalling 1/2 of a circle. 

You can see in the photo below how this makes the back just a little less full and sits a little flatter across my backside. Please just ignore the bunching around the zipper - if you haven't heard all the complaints this season, velvet can be quite uncooperative!

I borrowed the waistband and pocket design from the Sewaholic Hollyburn Skirt. This pattern has a lot of fans online and I do like the company, but I find myself wishing the skirt was fuller which is why I didn't use the complete pattern here. I also realized it has a straight rather than curved waistband, which isn't my favorite. It did not want to cooperate with the velvet and I find doesn't give as nice of a fit. But the pattern does have pockets, which are always nice to have!

While I don't often wear skirts, colorful midi skirts have a special place in my wardrobe and I can see myself getting some use out of this one! You know, once we can go to parties again...

Happy new year and may you stay safe and happy!

Workin It Skirt

Welp, it's been a busy coupla months. November started out with a work trip to a conference in Minneapolis. While I'd been to the conference before, it was my first time presenting. And I had A BLAST. My coworker and I brought some fun, quirky energy to what can sometimes be a more academic affair and we got great feedback. We're already brainstorming some ideas for next year. 

Of course, no sewist can go on a trip without making something new. I used the leftover from my Mary Poppins coat to make a cute pencil skirt that I wore for my big day. Of course I wore it with the coat :) 

Pattern: I don't remember? 

Fabric: ~1yd navy striped chevron wool jacquard from Mood

Cost: remnant

The skirt is made from a basic pencil skirt pattern in my stash - I honestly don't remember which one. I think I actually pulled a few out of my stash and, seeing that the sizing and darts were basically the same, used one. I did taper it at the sides to make it more pencil-shaped. I like that it doesn't have a waistband so the print wasn't interrupted and the construction was quick. I also added in slash pockets because every presenter needs a place to stash her pens. You can see me with my hand tucked into them below. 

My one mistake was to not include a walking vent. I had intended to do one, but I think I got lazy during construction and convinced myself there was enough walking room. Well, let me tell you that walking around your apartment is very different than trecking all over a convention center! My stride was definitely reduced and I may have to open this back up to add a back slit. Other than that though it was very comfortable and wearable all day. I also love that it is wool because it was 9 degrees when I landed in Minnesota! It was also lined which kept everything tidy and in place. 

Also new for this outfit is my third or fourth Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee. I wear my other two ALL the time (wearing one now) and thought I'd add a white one to the mix. I really like it with this skirt, though the fabric has a bit less drape than is ideal. I also cropped it a bit much, but luckily it has a wide hem so I will just have to re-hem it longer now that it's been through the wash a few times. 

When I got back from Minneapolis at the start of November we had already moved out of our place to start a much-anticipated bathroom remodel. It is starting to look amazing but getting your only bathroom stripped down to the studs is no joke! We've been living with various friends for a total of six weeks now and very much looking forward to moving back in at the end of this week. It will be our Christmas present! Needless to say there has been no sewing during this time, but I have just finished a big knitting project. And, of course, I will share some bathroom pics with you once it's done :) 

All in all it's been a big few months but lots to be excited for!

TBT: Jade Skirt

Pattern: Paprkia Pattern's Jade Skirt

Fabric: 1 yd knit jersey for shell, 1 yd knit jersey for lining

Cost: $10

Today I have a #ThrowBackThursday for you! Last summer I had the opportunity to test out Lisa's very first pattern, the Jade Skirt. It has made the rounds over the last few years as the folded mini (see Dixie DIY's version from last year). Lisa has been developing it off and on as she's traveled the countryside in her camper van (how bohemian!), and after all this time it is finally a fully-graded pattern available for sale! (At a name-your-price rate, too.)

Because I made up the pattern last year, for today's post I dug deep into my drafts and found these year-old pics from the archives. They were taken on my patio, before Mr. Made convinced me he should be my photographer, and before I got my new camera. While it is grainy, that curly 'do is making me re-think growing out my bangs!

Here's the (unpublished) post about the pattern that I wrote up last year: 

I have previously written about how much I love Lisa's innovative style, and watched as she took on Pattern Magic books, fabric printing, and her own designs. That is why it's exciting to get in her mind with her first pattern, the Jade Skirt. Paprika Patterns are marketed as 'clean and clever' sewing patterns, and I've also heard Lisa describe them as "patterns for edgier designs." All these elements are nicely incorporated into this skirt, which has a lot of visual interest and construction, yet overall is very sleek and clean.

Putting the pattern together was definitely a bit like doing origami or a Japanese drape drape book. I liked having a project where you take your time with the construction, and it reaally pays off! I recommend doing it in a medium-weight jersey, as my tissue weight ended being hard to fold and keep in place. After all the folding though, you pretty much just sew up the side seams and you're good to go! 

While the solid colored versions look amazing, I made mine up in stripes. The print obscures the folds a little, but I think it makes for a really interesting effect. This is the midi length version, which is perfect for me.

Overall, the pattern was a joy to construct, with amazingly detailed and helpful instructions that lead you through a variety of different construction options. Hop on over to her site to name your price and pick up your own copy!

Striped Pencil Skirt

Pattern: Simplicity's Vintage Teens' and Juniors' Jacket, Skirt and Blouse #6140 and Sunni's Skirt Vent Tutorial
Fabric: cotton knit
Cost: $10

After almost two months, I am finally back up and sewing again! The apartment move really took a toll on my time (and the new job!), not to mention the lag in getting my sewing area set up again. Everything's not quite perfect yet, but the other night I decided to take a break from cleaning, organizing and decorating to do a little sewing project. It was long overdue! The fabric I had also had for a while--it's the navy version of my second casual striped dress. I stayed up late to make it, and wore it to work the very next day (and a few times since!). The length and the soft, stretchy material are even compatible with riding my commuter bike!

Because I'm sewing less, I tend to have less crazy/impulsive ideas and am really starting to think about what I need in my wardrobe. I had had it in my head to make a striped pencil skirt for a while, and have only been fantasizing more about it on my commute to work in the city. I love the stripes by themselves, but also with a punch of color or a print.

Here's some other ways I'll be using my new skirt:

with a colorful blazer
via Polyvore

with a bright top
via Polyvore

with patterns
via Street Fashion Monitor

The Construction
Even though the material is stretchy, I knew I wanted my skirt to have darts, if only for the look and feel of it. To be honest, now that I've put them in, I think it gives a nicer fit, too. I used a vintage pattern I had as a template, borrowing from another that had a more pencil skirt shape. As usual, I had to take the skirt in at the sides and the lower back. I also struggled with the waist facing, mostly because my machine kept stretching the fabric out, even with a walking foot (I think the directions might have intended it to be a waistband, but I never read those things anyway). For now I have given up on the facing and attached a piece of lingerie elastic instead, folding it under. It could probably stand to be tacked down, but we'll see.

I also followed Sunni's directions on how to draft a back vent, and they are easy peasy. The only thing she doesn't cover (probably because she lines her skirt) is how to hem it. I did some internet searching to no avail, and the pattern I had only provides instructions for a back slit. My solution? Sew the skirt together at the sides, hem, sew the skirt together along the back seam. In other words, hem first, sew back vent together second. It could probably done in the other order, too. I really like how the vent turned out, and plan to use it again!

You can read my review of the pattern at PatternReview.com.

Paper Bag Skirt

Pattern: self-drafted; see: Cotton and Curls and Grosgrain
Fabric: wool blend
Cost: $10

The other evening, I rolled out of my bed from a nap (yes I take evening naps--don't judge) and decided I was going to make my paper bag skirt and I was going to make it now. Slightly groggy, I laid out my fabric on the floor, chalked some general lines, and started to cut.

I referenced Cotton and Curls for where to place the pleats and Grosgrain for a general pattern + my Marie Skirt. These patterns have you taper in at the leg, which creates a pencil skirt type shape. What a "paper bag" design really should be is a rectangle with pleats, and the design I was originally eyeing has definitely more of an A-line.

Because the skirt wasn't as full as I'd intended, I wanted to add a back slit for ease of movement. I ended up doing just a regular ol' slit (unpicked the seam a few inches and pressed the seam allowance to either side), but in the future I might try a back vent, with a great tutorial by A Fashionable Stitch. Of course, I don't think I made the slit long enough, because the first thing that happened when I stepped onto my bike today was a big ol' ripping sound as the seam broke. I guess that was just nature's way of helping me to adjust to a more convenient slit length.

Overall, I'd call this skirt a good first draft. My half-awake pattern-making meant the hem is not exactly on grain, and that each side of the front is a slightly different length, leading to some of that puckering you see in the pictures. Because it was wool (I know it's wool because it smells like wet dog under the steam iron), I was able to press away some of the gathers, but overall the skirt just isn't as "crisp" as it should be. Maybe next time I'll make it in a mustard cotton.

The skirt is finished with belt loops, pleats, and a front zip that goes all the way down the front of the dress.

Two-Hour Travel Skirt

Pattern: directions below
Materials: 3/4yd elastic; 1 yd 60" wide lightweight shirting, printed all the way up to the selvadge (no white stripe at the edge). Note: to get my look, choose a print with a varied design along one end.
Cost: $10

 Sometimes on a vacation you just want to escape to another world. Or maybe you need a different style of dress--something away from your office get-up or perhaps more conservative than your usual beach fare. Sometimes you're going from winter to summer. And then you need a two-hour travel skirt. It's quick to make and cheap to buy so you don't have to worry about what happens to it after (or during) your holiday. And the best part is that it could just be that perfect thing to get you in that vacation state of mind.    .

This skirt is two layers: basically a yard of fabric cut lengthwise and layered one strip on top of the other.  The two strips are then sewn together at the waist and have an elastic band running between them. The selvadges become the hems, so no need to hem!

Below you can find directions on how to make your own two-hour travel skirt:

Step 1: Measure desired length of skirt. Add 5/8". My total length was 23" so that the skirt would hit at knee length (a more moderate length for travel abroad).

Step 2: Lay out the fabric and measure from the selvadge the length you decided on in step 1. Cut. The selvadge will be the bottom of your skirt--no need to hem!

Step 3: Deside how much shorter you want your second layer to be. I chose 2 1/2". Measure desired length from the other selvadge and cut. So I cut mine 20 1/2" from the selvadge.

Step 4: Wrong sides together, join the sides of your longer fabric strip together at the raw edges. Do the same for the shorter strip. Sew the back seam of each piece separately using a french seam as follows: With wrong sides together, sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn the pieces inside out so that right sides are together. Sew each seam again with a 3/5"allowance so that it encases the raw edge of the previous seam.

Step 5: Turning both tubes wrong side out, slip the shorter tube on top of the longer one. Pin together at top and sew. 

Step 6: You may want to zig-zag or otherwise finish the raw edge.

Step 7: Turn the garment right side out so that the shorter tube hangs over the longer one. Topstitch from the edge at a distance that is 1/8" wider than you elastic. Leave an opening that extends 1" to either side of the back seam.

Step 8: Measure waist with elastic pulled taught. Cut, leaving 5/8" at each end.

Step 9: Securing one end of the elastic to the skirt, pull the other end of the elastic through the casing made in step 7. Use a safety pin to inch the elastic end through.

Step 10: Once the elastic is pulled through, sew ends together.

Done!

And check it out! I got featured on BurdaStyle!

Jewel Skirt

Pattern: BurdaStyle's Marie Skirt (with some inspiration from Simplicity and the Obi apron)
Fabric: silk
Cost: $15

I wanted a new skirt in a bright color and trendy shape for work. I made it just in time for the office holiday party. It fits above the hips and is hemmed to just above the knee. Not particularly creative on my part (see the picture for the Marie skirt and you'll see that mine is almost an exact replica), but this may be one of the first times in my life I've actually followed pattern instructions, so I should get points for that.

That said, the pattern instructions are unintelligible, so I believe I was following the intended instructions but can't be sure. I've also noticed that the folks over at BurdaStyle often put belts around problematic waist lines (for the Maire they used some kind of rope), and from the pictures of finished projects I didn't like the flat part of the dress where the pleats meet the waistline. Soooo, I borrowed from Simplicity's new skirt pattern and added a little tie at the front. I'm quite pleased with the results. I also pulled off my first ever lapped zipper using my technique (yes, I created my own instructions from sewing class just so that I could follow them later).

What I really liked about this pattern, unlike other printable patterns, is that it took only 8 pages to print, as the front and back are cut in the same shape. This is how ALL printable patterns should work. Otherwise, they should just come from the store.

Finally, because I am cheap and don't buy notions, I dug in to my supply of sewing odds and ends that I inherited from a deceased neighbor and found the perfect yellow thread, a hook and eye (although it may have been I who bought this) and a zipper. Made in 1970, the zipper claimed the yellow "maize" color would never fade. Forty years later, it is still in good shape, although the style is a bit dated (although how a zipper style could be dated I don't know but even the zipper teach are dyed yellow). Let's hope it holds up on my skirt!

Check it out at BurdaStyle!

Read the review of this pattern at PatternReview.com.

Striped Skirt

Pattern: Burda's Pants & Skirt #7551
Fabric: cotton knits
Cost: remnants

I hadn't meant to do any sewing, but I was lounging in bed one evening poking around on the internet when all of a sudden I decided to try to make a skirt that I had seen in a store a few months ago. I have been deeply dissatisfied with store-made skirts recently, mostly because they look really cute on the rack, but fit too high in the waist, making them too short. I needed a better fit.

So I busted out the picture I had taken in the dressing room and a Burda pattern that I thought approximated the style, and got to work. Unfortunately (like most of my sewing projects), it took longer than expected. The pattern required alterations (I immediately eliminated the bubble hem), and the fabric did not drape well, requiring it to be taken in. Then the waistband didn't fit right, and that had to be redone. All told I sewed each seam on this skirt two to three times. The end result is a little bland, but I already have a remake in mind for the remnants from my sweatshirt sports coat. :)

Check it out at PatternReview.com and BurdaStyle!

Inspiration:

First Skirt

Pattern: unknown (basic A-line skirt pattern with back zipper)
Fabric: Cotton print; lace

This was the result of a sewing class I took freshman year of high school. Before Home Ec, I was pretty much self taught aside from a few instructions from my mom. The skirt pattern was mandatory, although I tried to dress it up with a little lace. In the end, though, the skirt looks like exactly what it is: a 14-year-old's creation. The sewing work, however, is probably the cleanest and most "correct" I've ever done, as the teacher made us redo everything until it followed the textbook definition, probably so she could keep us busy for the length of the quarter. If you are interested in repeating it, it is a McCall's pattern.