Working It Out

Not to psychoanalyze my sewing, but I've worked up a pretty good theory about my recent obsession with activewear. In the before times, I could care less about what I looked like when I worked out. I wanted clothes that were comfy and, preferably, with a pocket for my keys, but beyond that the same running clothes I'd worn for the past 15 years seemed fine. Now, I'm suddenly dreaming up pink matching workout sets and buying leopard-print spandex. What happened?

Well, my theory is this. Before, I could put my energy into fun dresses, skinny jeans, and outfits to wear out. Now, my main outings each day are usually just my morning run and afternoon dog walk. That's it. Suddenly that becomes my only chance to show off my personal style. To see and be seen. And damn it I'm going to take advantage of it!

So with that, I present to you my latest, a leopard print running outfit. 

Pattern: Greenstyle Creations Tempo Tights and Sophie Hines Axis Tank

Fabric: 2 yds reversible leopard print activewear in dusty rose, plus black mesh

Cost: $30

This is another version of the Greenstyle Creations Tempo Tights, which I love for its good fit and fun print mixing possibilities. The reversible fabric on this one made it really easy. I also ordered some more black mesh, this time in a more open weave. (OK I also ordered like a ton more spandex. More on that later.) 

The one update that I made to this pattern, which you can see in the photo above, is that I cut the lower leg insert on the fold rather than as a front and back piece. This eliminates the center seam and allows me to cut the mesh all as one piece. You have to sew it in last after sewing the inseam closed, but it works out well.

The top is another Sophie Hines Axis Tank. I like my tops a bit longer so I lengthened it again, and this time made it with the design panels - one cut in coordinating print and another in mesh. It's fun, but I actually think I might prefer slightly looser tops. And I still can't seem to get the bindings quite the right size. 

Of course, as soon as this fabric arrived the weather really warmed up and long running pants weren't working out too well. (Also, the fires came, so I had to take a break for running for a bit.) But once we had clear skies I thought I might also like some in a bike short length. My thighs tend to rub together when running, so I prefer spandex to looser shorts and wanted them long enough to protect my legs from the rub. I used another spandex from my mail order to put these together. 

These are actually a modified version of the Greenstyle Stride Tights that I have been drafting up. They are designed to have diagonal pieces all down the legs. For the shorts, I raised the diagonal line some and sewed the bottom panel in mesh. This makes them super breathable. The top part still has the pocket and it's even long enough to stash a phone in (though I usually don't run with one). The one update I made after sewing was that waistband, which is double thickness, felt pretty warm on my run. I unpicked it and resewed it as a single layer. Much better!

The tank is an a-line top that's a combination of the Megan Nielsen Reef Camisole with the Axis Tank straps and neckline. The fabric is super soft and I may even steal this (or make another) for non-workout wear. This is definitely my preferred style for runs and it so perfect!

So, one last thing. After making these tights I of course made a few more. And a few more. And as you can tell my obsession is growing. Rather than keep on with the blog posts I figured I'd put it into one quick video for you! Ha!

I hope you are enjoying your weekend and finding fun ways to fill your time! 

His and Hers: Favorite Quarantine Patterns

At this point we've been mostly sheltered in place since March 11. That's over 5 months. Over 150 days. It hasn't always been easy - I had a lot of anxiety and some depressed feelings as I adjusted to it all. And these days find myself very angry at times. But we're learning to live with it and committed to slowing the spread. Sewing definitely helps. So today I'm sharing some of my favorite summer loungewear patterns that I've made these past few months for both me and my husband. They aren't anything too groundbreaking - Hudson pants, the Axis tank, Greenstyle leggings. But they do get worn all. the. time. 

For her: Sophie Hines Axis Tank, Hudson Pants, Greenstyle Stride Tights

For him: Thread Theory Strathcona Henley

First up is the tank top pattern of these summer - the Sophie Hines Axis tank. It's a unique pattern with no side seams (just a single seam up the back) so it sews up very quickly. I love the cutout shoulders and that it comes with some color-blocking options. That said, I had to make a few adjustments to the pattern to make it work for me. First, I re-sewed the neckline three times, moving lower until it no longer felt like it was chocking me. While I like the high-neckline look in theory, I quickly discovered it was not comfortable for me. I also found I had to shorten the armhole bands to get the right tension. Turned into a bit of a longer project with all that fiddling. You'll also notice that I lengthened the top. I'm not quite sure this is advisable given the lack of side seam - I definitely had to grade out and it still rides up at my hips a bit. Overall though a very comfy top for summer and I managed to sew it before our heat wave hit.

Below you'll also see that I made a more A-line version. Again this is a bit tricky without the side seams and I'm not sure it fully worked, but I'm all about playing with patterns and having fun during quarantine. The fabric is very soft. 

I've paired each of these tops with two patterns I've sewn over and over again - the Hudson pants from True Bias and the Greenstyle Stride Tights. Each has pockets and lets me trade off between tighter and looser styles so they're pretty much all I need. The one thing I'll say about the Hudson pants is that, like most pants patterns, the fit really varies based on the fabric you're using. The two times I've made this previously they've been on the looser side, but this time they were actually so snug through the legs that I had to add a few inches of fabric to the outside leg seam to relax the fit a bit. I also subbed out the waistband for one that is the length of the elastic rather than the length of the pants to achieve a smoother, un-gathered look. I think I also adjusted the angle of the pocket opening so that my phone wouldn't fall out. 

For the Stride Tights, I used a semi-opaque mesh fabric on the side panels which makes them breezier for summer. I mostly wear this pair for running, but have another pair that I wear around the house. I just LOVE the pockets. 

Ok that's four for me what about for the Mr.? He somehow still wears non-stretch pants most days, though I've definitely seen him get more use out of the stretch jeans I've made him. This time around I made him two Strathcona Henleys. I think I meant to make these up for his last birthday (in December - whoops) but had the fabric on hand ready to go. He is partial to soft shirts and these definitely fit the bill. Plus the buttons make a t-shirt look a little dressed up for video meetings. Right?

One of the fabrics had a print on one side and was plain on the other, so I decided to have some fun with it. I like the diagonal stripe although I wish I'd centered it a bit lower. For some reason, I really struggled cutting this one out. 

I've made him one of these before that he wears often. While he is nearly 6 feet tall I did shorten the sleeves and torso as they are quite long. I also hate that placket - I find myself swearing every time I make it. On the plus side, you'll notice there was some fabric leftover for me ;) 

Any recommendations for your favorite loungewear patterns? 

Greenstyle Tempo Tights

For the past fifteen years, I've worn the same workout clothes. Yup. They were high quality, made to last, and, while not particularly fashionable, I didn't need anything special to go for a run. But recently my workout clothes have started to show their age. Holes, sagging, you know the drill. And the new ones I bought just weren't cutting it - not stretchy enough, ill-fitting, not breathable (!). So despite never feeling the urge to sew workout wear before, I finally decided it was time to make my own. And you guys, I've caught the workout wear bug. I pretty much want to dress like an IG workout influencer now.

Pattern: Greenstyle Creations Tempo Tights

Fabric: spandex

Cost: $10

While I've made a few pairs of Greenstyle tights now, this one is definitely the pinnacle of wild workout wear. Bright colors? Check. Color blocking? Check. Swooping seam lines. Check check. 

In full disclosure though, this pair was actually somewhat of an accident. I bought some pink "twill" from Spandex World only to realize when it arrived that it was... spandex. Not quite suitable for its intended purpose. But, it did turn out to be a good opportunity to try out my new Greenstyle Tempo Tights pattern. 

This is the second Greenstyle tights pattern I've made after the Stride Tights. These have a similar pocket style and fit. But what I appreciated about this pattern was that, while similar to the other one, offered a different style of pocket construction, a differently shaped gusset, and the waistband style lines had been adjusted to match the lines of the pants. I appreciated this attention to detail and getting the most out of each pattern.

Of course, what I really like about this pattern is the cool seam lines and potential for color-blocking. This spandex was darker pink on one side and lighter on the other, which was perfect for this pattern. I also found some red mesh in my stash and was able to squeeze out the calf cutout for the full ombre look. If you're sewing these up, I highly recommend basting along the inseam to make sure your color-blocking perfectly matches up. I don't usually baste but it's definitely worth the extra effort here.

In terms of fit, I love that I can sew my own tights that actually fit. Other tights I've bought have been too tight in the leg and too loose at the waist, leading them to ride down as I ran. Looking at the Greenstyle size chart, I now realize that it is because my thigh is actually several sizes bigger than my hip. I already knew I was pear-shaped, but I didn't realize that I needed to size up for my thighs as well. Much better! 

The only thing now is I have the urge to sew a matching top. And I have like three more spandex colors coming in the mail. Please send help - this may be one of those weird quarantine obsessions. 

Stay-At-Home Loungewear

From my rooftop I can see into the top apartment on a neighboring building. I've never noticed anyone in there before, but the past few times I've been up here to take photos I've noticed the couple is home. I guess everyone is home now. Today the man was doing some sort of virtual exercise routine. They also have a very nice looking cat with a window seat. I wonder if they've noticed me?

Like the rest of them, I've been staying home. I guess it's not too different from my normal routine of working from home. Regardless, I've definitely been needing more loungewear in my life and finally took a break from fancy projects to sew some up.

Pattern: Schnitten Patterns Sue Sweatshirt and Greenstyle Creations Stride Athletic Tights
Fabric: assorted knits
Cost: remnants for the top and $20 for the tights

Let's start with the top. I actually had this planned for a while, but for those sewing from your stash right now this pattern and ones like it are a great way to use up remnants. The main fabric here is an Art Gallery knit from my partnership with Modes4U. I somehow got it in my head that it would be really fun to play with the print and color blocking and mocked up quite a few versions in Photoshop until I found something I liked. I bought the burnt orange to go with it, though I realized later I could have used a remnant from my jumpsuit, and the black pieces are remnants from two different knits.

The pattern is the Sue Sweatshirt from Schnittchen Patterns. A bit of research showed that it was inspired by Helmut Lang's Alexandre Plokhov collection for Uniqlo (Sewing Workshop also has the Bristol pattern that is inspired by this collection). 

This was my first time working with Schnittchen and, well I wasn't terribly impressed. For one, there appear to be two different versions of the pattern floating around, one sold on their website and one sold for a bit more on The Foldline website. This would be all fine except the line drawings are different. See the difference? The one from their website (left) has a hemband that wraps all the way around, while the one from Foldline does not. The model in both cases, however, showed the one on the right. 

I wondered if maybe the line drawing was wrong but when I bought my pattern the pieces were for the one on the left. A quick web search shows that people indeed have sewn up two different versions. The problem was, I had my heard set on the one on the right. It's not a huge difference but it changes the construction order and some of the pattern pieces. So, do know that and choose accordingly before you buy. 

The other thing I disliked about the Schnittchen pattern were the instructions. They're a bit hard to follow. But there are some clever construction techniques in there. I think they were in there - otherwise I made them up and I'm clever! They were translated from German but the line drawings (showing markings like center front, etc.) weren't always translated so that was also annoying.

I do like the final fit, however. I didn't want this to be too boxy and it ended up just fine. This is probably also due to my fabric choice, which is more drapey than sweatshirt fabric. In terms of alterations, I only made a few small changes aside from re-creating the hem-band of the other version. First, I re-drew the neckline to make it more of a crew-neck shape. I also shortened the arms by about three inches as they were looong. Finally, I cut the back and side fronts as two separate pieces so I could play with the directionality of the stripes in the front without messing with the grainline on the back. I like the final result. Isn't that hem band cool?

The top is probably more interesting but I am arguably much more excited about these tights. I struggled with the Jalie leggings over several versions before deciding that I needed to try a new pattern. In addition to a good fit, I was looking for something that had pockets on the legs and that sat high at the natural waist. After looking through several patterns I settled on the Stride Athletic Tights from the new-to-me Greenstyle Creations company.

Sometimes I can be a little reticent to try out indie pattern companies that I'm not familiar with. Indeed, the pattern had a few of the common flaws I see from others: the instructions were overly detailed in some places but lacking in others, there weren't enough notches to help with construction, and it was hard to tell which pattern pieces to cut for which view.

However, overall I'm very happy with this pattern. First off, the fit is great. This is my second pair. The first did turn out a little snug (I imagine the fit will really vary based on your fabric), but the shape was great on me and was exactly what I was looking for. The designer has a wide size range and also uses models throughout the size range, which is really great. It seems people tend to get a good fit.

I am also really pleased with the details. The designer appears to be very athletic based on her Instagram and I feel like these could work well for me on my runs or, made in a fabric like this one, for lounging around the house. This is great as my running tights are wearing out and I'd been looking for a replacement pattern. I don't usually run with my cell phone but I love the pockets for using my phone when walking the dog and also stashing my keys. There's also an option for a waistband pocket but I skipped that.



The fabric is the yoga stretch knit from Stonemountain. It is actually less like an athletic material and more like a medium-weight t-shirt knit (I actually made the hubs a t-shirt out of this over a year ago), but I actually quite like it for tights. The stretch percentage is slightly lower so I added an inch of extra ease to my tights.

The only other alteration I made to the pattern was to convert the side panel into a straight vertical panel rather than one that extends as a yoke toward the back. Looking at the pattern pieces I could see that the yoke didn't add any extra shaping, and I prefer fewer seams in tights if possible.

In all I expect to get some good wear out of these during quarantine and beyond. In fact, I'm wearing them now! And by the way, yes, this is me.

Getting Sporty

Ok I know I know I know it's November. And you don't need shorts in November. But back in August as I was sweating my ass off on an 11-mile hike I realized that I really did need shorts. How did I not have a pair of shorts? Or at least a pair of active-wear shorts to hike in. Luckily I was able to make these up in time to get a few wears in before the weather turned cold. And then I made a few other outdoor essentials to go with them. 

Pattern: Closet Case Files Pietra Shorts and Pants

Fabric: Robert Kaufman stretch suiting and other remnants

Cost: free from remnants

Pattern: Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee

Fabric: cotton knit

Cost: gift from my mom

Pattern: Style Arc Baseball Cap  

Fabric: upholstery-weight cotton

Cost: $20

Let's start with the shorts. These are made using the new Pietra Shorts and Pants pattern from Closet Case Files. However, you'll notice that these are a lot narrower than the pattern shorts. As I wanted something no-frills for hiking, I cut mine from the narrower pants pattern rather than the wider shorts pieces. It was a bit of a process to calculate given the unique pocket construction and my limited fabric, but I got there in the end - even if the side is pieced together.

To allow for maximum movement, I used remnants I had on hand of Robert Kaufman's stretch suiting. I just love the drape and stretch on this fabric - so comfy! This is probably the fourth time I've sewn with it and it's great for pants. However, as you can see I didn't quite have enough, so the pocket insert is made from an upholstery-weight remnant I had on hand. While I thought about trying to use a matching fabric, in the end I like that the subtle variation in texture between the two pieces. Together, the fabrics feel really sturdy for hiking and allow lots of movement.

Another reason that I wanted to make these shorts was to test out the fit of the Pietra Pants. From this sample, I quite liked the fit and could see myself making the full length version. As a pear-shape, however, I knew I couldn't do my usual grading between sizes as the pull-on style wouldn't fit over my hips. Instead, I cut the largest size according to my measurements and cut the elastic shorter to get it to fit at the waist. This works well for these shorts, although there is a lot of gathering back there. 

In this photo I'm also wearing one of my Tessuti Mandy Boat Tees, which is an absolute staple in my wardrobe. It is as easy to wear as a regular knit t-shirt, but somehow feels more interesting. I find I can wear it to work and on the weekends with ease. My mom spotted it and so I recently traced off a copy of the pattern to send to her as well. The pattern is free on the Tessuti site. The fabric was a gift from her and is a lovely heathered texture with little blue flecks in it. It's not super stretchy but works well for this pattern. 

Finally, I made a baseball hat. Why? Honestly, I'm not really sure. Somehow I got it in my head that I wanted to make one after seeing a cool cap my friend was wearing and just couldn't let the idea go. I liked the idea of having a more fitted one than the typical baseball cap and being able to use whatever fabric I wanted. Style Arc makes a Baseball Cap pattern and you can get a 10-pack of brims for $5 online.

Of course, sewing one was not as easy as I imagined. Aside from printing the pattern at the wrong scale, there are lots of fiddly bits and I have a small head so there was actually some fitting to do. We'll call this version a wearable muslin. I think I have the process figured out a bit more now though and will give it another go. Just imagine the fabric possibilities!

 Here are some more detailed shots of cap. The hat is topped with a button from the stash and the inside is lightly interfaced. The seams are hidden with bias tape in the style that my friend's hat was, although the Style Arc pattern recommends fulling lining it. Using the store-bought brim was especially fiddly. I think a zipper foot was involved.

You can see some rippling at the brim and my husband says it's a little off-balance, but I'm excited to try again next time.

It turns out, hats aren't just good for sunny days but for all manner of bad hair days, so this one might last me through the California winter as well. Anyone else making unseasonable clothes out there??

Print-Mixing Bikini

Aloha! We snuck off for a week to enjoy the sun on Maui. My father-in-law came along and celebrated his 70th birthday with a tropical drive around the island, Asian noodles, and a boat ride through the lava rocks. There was also lots of opportunity for sun and sand and, of course, my annual new swimsuit. Such a lucky girl!

Pattern: Orange Lingerie's Esplanade Bra and Ohhh Lulu Grace Panties
Fabric: Poly Spandex in Daisy and Crane prints
Cost: $20

Somewhere I got the idea in my head that I wanted a print-mixed bikini this year. I blame Pinterest. I couldn't stop thinking about pairing two contrasting florals in a bohemian, chic suit for the summer. In practice, finding the right fabric was much harder than expected. I scoured countless fabric stores, mocked up a few combos, was talked out of my most wild notions by my husband and the internet, and finally settled on these two fabrics from the Fabric Fairy. I like the way the black compliments the florals, and the cranes have a similar color scheme. The fabrics arrived quickly and were of great quality, so I was on my way! I also have like 20yds of swimsuit elastic on hand after buying in bulk on Amazon.



For this swimsuit, I was also dearly tempted to buy the Closet Case Files Sophie Swimsuit. As you can see, my suit is nearly identical. However, it was hard to justify when I had two very similar patterns in my stash already. The final tipping point was the reminder that I'd already fitted these patterns to my body - for a bra and bottoms, this is very important! So I dove ahead using the Orange Lingerie Esplanade Bra and Ohhh Lulu Grace Panties patterns to great results.

For the top, I made a few modifications. I first shortened the height of the band all the way around so that it was barely an inch under the cups. I then tapered the back band further until it was the size of my back clasp. Finally, I added a fabric tube as the neck strap, attached to the top of the bust cups. I didn't add any boning or supports other than underwire and cup foam and it holds up really well on my body without slipping.

For the bottoms, I had already lengthened the Grace panties so that they reached my natural waist. I have quite a long rise, so I believe I raised them by several inches. I also sewed a second pair that is low rise. From what I remember, this low rise version is lower than the Grace panties as drafted. I've been making two bottoms for my bathing suits lately and liking it quite a lot. It allows me to have a more adventurous pair, like this high-rise version or even a really cheeky version, and then have a more "normal" version for when I'm not feeling so daring. Makes the suit much more versatile!

The suit behaved well in the water. I wore it to lounge at the beach and the pool, but I also wore it out snorkeling, twice! The higher rise of the bottoms give ya more sun coverage when you're face down looking at fish and turtles. The top stays on well, although I wouldn't wear it for serious swimming. In that case, I'd want a more compression-style top, similar to how you'd wear a sports bra rather than a foam underwire bra to go running. My only gripe really is that the leg elastic is quite snug, which looks fabulous but isn't ideal for all-day wear such as riding along the rode to Hana looking for waterfalls.


It took me several years and many fails to sew a bathing suit I actually liked. The last two suits I wore to Hawaii, 5 and 8 years ago, were barely wearable. But I finally got the hang of it a few years ago and I haven't looked back since. They aren't all winners, but I have a feeling I'll be wearing this one for years to come! 

Activewear!

For the past two months, I have been kicking up my running game to train for the Oakland Running Festival 5k. I also took this as an opportunity to kick up my running-wear game with this fantastic, over the top, head-to-toe Oakland print running outfit. I just couldn't resist.

Pattern: Jalie Leggings 2920 and McCall's Tops 6128
Fabric: 2 yds
Cost: $50

I taught myself some Adobe Illustrator, designed the fabric myself using a vintage tattoo print as a starting point, and added all my favorite Oakland landmarks - the Bay Bridge, the port cranes, the movie theater sign, and of course the Oakland tree. It was quite the project, but I am actually pretty thrilled with the results. Runners can be known for some whacky outfits and I think this brings just enough flair and personality to the local road race.

I had the lycra printed by Spoonflower. While I've had issues with their cotton in the past, the lycra seems to print well with vibrant colors and no fading yet. They print their lycra using white fabric though, so you don't want to use any pattern that stretches too much or you start to see the white. I was careful to make sure my tights weren't too tight for this reason, as I didn't want the print to over stretch. You can see a bit of the stretching at some of the seams, but overall I am happy with the results.

It was a bit scary to finally cut into this precious fabric. I was careful with the cutting layout to feature some of my favorite parts of the print and not have any awkward placements, but it turned out better than I had even hoped for. It ended up quite symmetric and there's an Oakland tree right on each knee! One man said I was his inspiration during the race as he followed this bold print. Ha!

For years I've had no interest in sewing activewear. To be honest, I've been wearing the same running clothes for the past 10+ years and they've held up pretty well, supplemented by some nearly-new things my friends didn't want. But on the few occasions that I have bought new, they suuuucked. The cheap tights I picked up would be too tight at the calf, too loose at the waist, and just all around terrible. Some were barely breathable.

Fitting my own activewear wasn't a walk in the park either. I made three versions of these tights in a different fabric before cutting into my precious fabric, and they're still not perfect. I chose Jalie 2920 because I liked the simplicity of the pattern with no side seams. I often use a foam roller on my knees before running and I like that there are no seams there to interfere, plus less chance of chaffing. But I found that the Jalie pattern required a lot more stretch than the typical activewear fabric, which was a bit disappointing considering that's the audience they seem to market to. I ended up sizing up beyond the biggest size (ZZ) even though my measurements put me around an AA, and I still needed to add extra room for the calves. The waistband is finished with a soft 2" wide elastic to hold everything in place, although it did end up a smidge too big in that area. I will have to fine tune some more, but I'm glad I tested it out first on some other fabric.

The top was made in an evening without as much thought, and there is some wrinkling but overall it performed well without much chaffing. It is made from the out-of-print McCall's 6128 because that's the racerback tank pattern I had on hand.

As for the race itself, I was pleased with my time. It is nothing like when I used to run cross country in high school, but I managed to run very evenly under a 7:30 minute pace for the 3.1 miles. As evidenced by the above photo, it was definitely a push but I felt pretty good the whole time.

The Mr. also ran his first 5k ever along with a bunch of our friends. We celebrated with too many beers and some takeout afterwards. It was so fun to be able to step out our front door and run this race. I might have to do something similar again!