Party Cami

It's Saturday night in pandemic times, and I'm not going to a party. But I did make up this festive new top, and may even wear it around the house.

Pattern: True Bias Ogden Cami

Fabric: thrifted shirt

Cost: $8  

This wild fabric began life as a thrift store shirt. Actually, I'm pretty sure it had quite a life before that as well. It has handwriting in Chinese on the tag, and a few of the covered buttons that went missing have been lovingly replaced with buttons in another style. So, clearly it was well-loved in its time. 

In its second life, I bought it for $8 as my husband's Halloween costume as Tiger King. I, naturally, was Carole Baskins and Beatrix played the part of tiger. 

And while I have always loved a good costume, for the past few years I have really tried to give my costumes some life after October. So rather than take this shirt back to whence it came, I decided to try refashioning it into a quirky Ogden cami. Those little party streamers were just begging to be a new party shirt. 

The full blouse had just the right amount of fabric for a refashion - it's amazing how much you need when you're using something that's already made up! I kept the button front intact with three buttons, and while the shirt can still technically unbutton, it is secured at the top with the facing and the bottom with the ruffle. 

To make the shirt, I cropped the top at two "stripes" and then used the full hem of the shirt to make a third row as a ruffle. I like the fullness this gives to the top. I did, however, end up adjusting it after making it by reattaching the ruffle higher up on the bodice. This felt like a more balanced proportion. You can see the before on the left below and the shortened version on the right. It's always nice to do a little tweaking if it doesn't come out just right the first time. 

The top does feel a little unbalanced to me. The front wants to ride up and the back sits lower. I'm not sure if this is a feature of the pattern on my body or something that happened in my pattern hacking and refashioning. But it doesn't bother me a ton. 

The nice thing about a refashion is, if you can salvage things like buttons and hems, it doesn't take a whole lot of time to do. I anticipated this would take me a few nights but actually sewed up in just one day. 

After not buying the Ogen pattern for ages, I have found that I really love my first version and hope that I get some wear out of this one as well as the weather warms. 

His and Hers: Favorite Quarantine Patterns

At this point we've been mostly sheltered in place since March 11. That's over 5 months. Over 150 days. It hasn't always been easy - I had a lot of anxiety and some depressed feelings as I adjusted to it all. And these days find myself very angry at times. But we're learning to live with it and committed to slowing the spread. Sewing definitely helps. So today I'm sharing some of my favorite summer loungewear patterns that I've made these past few months for both me and my husband. They aren't anything too groundbreaking - Hudson pants, the Axis tank, Greenstyle leggings. But they do get worn all. the. time. 

For her: Sophie Hines Axis Tank, Hudson Pants, Greenstyle Stride Tights

For him: Thread Theory Strathcona Henley

First up is the tank top pattern of these summer - the Sophie Hines Axis tank. It's a unique pattern with no side seams (just a single seam up the back) so it sews up very quickly. I love the cutout shoulders and that it comes with some color-blocking options. That said, I had to make a few adjustments to the pattern to make it work for me. First, I re-sewed the neckline three times, moving lower until it no longer felt like it was chocking me. While I like the high-neckline look in theory, I quickly discovered it was not comfortable for me. I also found I had to shorten the armhole bands to get the right tension. Turned into a bit of a longer project with all that fiddling. You'll also notice that I lengthened the top. I'm not quite sure this is advisable given the lack of side seam - I definitely had to grade out and it still rides up at my hips a bit. Overall though a very comfy top for summer and I managed to sew it before our heat wave hit.

Below you'll also see that I made a more A-line version. Again this is a bit tricky without the side seams and I'm not sure it fully worked, but I'm all about playing with patterns and having fun during quarantine. The fabric is very soft. 

I've paired each of these tops with two patterns I've sewn over and over again - the Hudson pants from True Bias and the Greenstyle Stride Tights. Each has pockets and lets me trade off between tighter and looser styles so they're pretty much all I need. The one thing I'll say about the Hudson pants is that, like most pants patterns, the fit really varies based on the fabric you're using. The two times I've made this previously they've been on the looser side, but this time they were actually so snug through the legs that I had to add a few inches of fabric to the outside leg seam to relax the fit a bit. I also subbed out the waistband for one that is the length of the elastic rather than the length of the pants to achieve a smoother, un-gathered look. I think I also adjusted the angle of the pocket opening so that my phone wouldn't fall out. 

For the Stride Tights, I used a semi-opaque mesh fabric on the side panels which makes them breezier for summer. I mostly wear this pair for running, but have another pair that I wear around the house. I just LOVE the pockets. 

Ok that's four for me what about for the Mr.? He somehow still wears non-stretch pants most days, though I've definitely seen him get more use out of the stretch jeans I've made him. This time around I made him two Strathcona Henleys. I think I meant to make these up for his last birthday (in December - whoops) but had the fabric on hand ready to go. He is partial to soft shirts and these definitely fit the bill. Plus the buttons make a t-shirt look a little dressed up for video meetings. Right?

One of the fabrics had a print on one side and was plain on the other, so I decided to have some fun with it. I like the diagonal stripe although I wish I'd centered it a bit lower. For some reason, I really struggled cutting this one out. 

I've made him one of these before that he wears often. While he is nearly 6 feet tall I did shorten the sleeves and torso as they are quite long. I also hate that placket - I find myself swearing every time I make it. On the plus side, you'll notice there was some fabric leftover for me ;) 

Any recommendations for your favorite loungewear patterns? 

More Hudson Pants

Pattern: True Bias's Hudson Pants
Fabric: French terry
Cost: $8

 It's no secret that I love the Hudson Pants pattern. I have made myself a pair, made the men's version, and even made a chambray version. If I had kids I'd have probably made them a pair.
At this rate, I've made one a year since they came out in 2014.

As pajamas, I wore my original pair regularly. Nightly. After more than two years the fabric was starting to run bare, so I decided I needed to replace them. I don't love having to remake something when I've already made a perfectly good one, but luckily this patterns is so fast and has just enough fun details to make it interesting.

The French terry I used had less stretch than my last version, which was more of a jersey knit. I was surprised that they fit a bit more snug, but I think now they look more similar to other versions I've seen online. They also loosen up after a couple of wears. 

They have already become a fast favorite. In the six months since I've made them, they've been with me to the desert, to Christmas, and countless study sessions on my couch. They are the perfect pajamas!

End of Summer Emerson Pants

Pattern: True Bias Emerson Pants
Fabric: 1.5 yds 12oz denim
Cost: $12

I recently realized that you can order fabric and notions from Amazon Prime. It's not the best selection, but it comes with two-day free shipping(!!). I promptly found myself ordering a 5 yard bolt of denim, and came back later that afternoon for a 75-yard spool of 1/4" swimwear elastic (used in my recent bathing suit). Uh, what?! It seems I can't resist the bulk discounts and one-click purchasing. Someone help me.

I haven't forgotten the incredible local fabric stores, but my internship this summer wasn't near any and working an after-hours second job was really cutting into my sewing time. So two days later, without any extra running around town, these goodies arrived. That and a new pattern to test for True Bias and I was a happy girl.

The Emerson pattern appealed to me because it is a comfortable, easy-to-wear pair of pants that isn't track pants. While I love my chambray Hudson Pants, I wanted an alternative for lazy days that made me look a little more pulled together. They were perfect for a recent trip to Pismo Beach, where we walked all day, napped in the sand, and ate clam chowder. With the wide legs and partial elastic waistband, this pair is both effortless and presentable. Plus, you know I love me some pants. All the pants.

As these are the tester version, a few changes were made to the final design. Kelli said she lengthened the rise slightly to avoid some bunching. I was pleasantly surprised though at how good the fit was on the first go - I've gotten very picky about this aspect. On my version, I also narrowed the legs a little. While I love the wide-legged design, I got timid at the last moment and narrowed mine by about two inches. After having seen others' photos, however, I think I will try the full width next time.

Speaking of my Amazon order, I do have some swimwear elastic to giveaway from my last post. The swimwear elastic is some of my favorite - it's cotton rather than plastic, which I find much more comfortable and easier to sew with. Without further ado, the winner is Rachel from a Basic_Stitch, a fellow grad student and bathing suit sewer who entered here and over on Instagram. Congrats Rachel! I will contact you for your shipping info.

Meanwhile, I am taking a few days off before I head back to school. Our trip to Pismo was bliss, and now I'm trying my hand at a few creative endeavors I've wanted to work on for a while. Shoe making anyone? Hope you all are enjoying the end of summer!

Red Wool Sweater Top

Pattern: frankenpattern + redrafting
Fabric: 1 1/2 yds red wool ponte
Cost: $18


During my winter holidays I found myself with more time on my hands than usual, which soon led to me turning even the simplest sewing tasks into more involved projects. Making Mr. Made a fourth pair of pants? Redraft them! Making a simple knit t-shirt? Learn all about cap height and armscyes! But learning about fit is time well spent in my book, even if it's causing my basic sewing projects to become increasingly complex.

My latest project is a redrafted t-shirt pattern, which was inspired by this luxurious wool ponte from Crossroads Fabric in Santa Cruz County. The store is in an unassuming building hidden behind a motorcycle repair shop, but you can find the most amazing designer bolt-ends amongst the stacks of fabric. While the owner claimed that material like this can sell for upwards of $50 a yard, she had this one marked at $14 a yard and sold it to me for $12, plus an extra half yard for free as we finished off the bolt. The red wool gave me visions of a classic sweater top, and I wanted to use my Bonnie Sweater pattern with its boat neckline. But first I knew that I had to fix some issues with bunching around the armpits from my first version. My research into the issue led me down an internet rabbit hole to this article on sleeve cap height, which of course then led me to this contradictory article about sleeve cap ease. Who knew t-shirt sewing could get so theoretical and complicated?

According to my reading, many shirt patterns are drafted with the sleeve on the wrong grain, which I have attempted to illustrate below. This is easiest to examine on a shirt with stripes or plaid, where the stripes should run parallel to the garment body (right image) rather than jut off at an angle on the sleeve (left image). The incorrect grain line can cause the sleeves to flare out or create drag lines in the body because the rounded shoulder needs more room in the sleeve cap before the sleeve turns into a tube going down the arm.

I had never heard of this issue before, and a trip to my closet revealed that all my shirts, from self-made to ready-to-wear all had the so-called "incorrect grain." Very interesting! I don't find the problem to be particularly egregious if is isn't causing visible fit issues, but in an effort to improve my drafting I decided to try to fix this problem on one of my patterns in the hopes that it would improve the fit of the shirt. One article suggests you should correct the issue by adding height to the sleeve cap, while the other recommends fancy drafting to recut and reshape the sleeve without any ease at all. Since I don't know much about fancy drafting, I decided to try to lengthen the sleeve cap instead.

One question I had, however, is what happens to the overall look of the shoulder when you lengthen the sleeve cap. The adjustment isn't fully explained in any of the articles, but I imagine that lengthening the sleeve cap creates extra ease at the shoulder, which could result in 80s type sleeve heads. Yikes! But according to the article, not enough ease and you don't have enough room to move your shoulder, so adding in the right amount of ease is important.

For this reason, I ended up choosing to alter Deer and Doe's Plantain shirt, which didn't have much ease in the sleeve cap to begin with, allowing me to start small. In fact, some initial measurements showed that it had negative ease, which is very odd. Normally, the sleeve head is supposed to be eased into the armscye, but in the case of this pattern the sleeve head was actually smaller than the armscye, measuring 14 1/2" compared to the 16" at the armhole opening. I have never encountered that before, and felt it was very strange.

Other initial measurements confirmed that it, too, suffered from a poor sleeve grain issue. Online photos show that the sleeves tend to flare out on some people's versions, as mentioned above. Indeed, the shirt had a particularly short sleeve cap at 4", compared to the recommended height of 5-6".

Lengthening the sleeve cap allowed me to fix both the ease problem and the grain problem at the same time (and, indeed, they are probably one in the same issue). Various sources say the sleeve cap should have 1/2" to 1" more ease than the armhole in a knit t-shirt pattern (more for a jacket), so I would want to increase the sleeve cap circumference from 14 1/2" to 16 1/2" to fit into the 16" armhole. This could be accomplished by lengthening the height of the sleeve cap by 1", thereby adding an additional inch on each side and increasing the overall height:

To lengthen the height of the sleeve cap, I followed Thread Magazine's instructions to slice above the notches and lengthen by one inch. This resulted in a 5" cap height and a 16 1/2" sleeve cap circumference, all fitting in to the unaltered 16" armscye. Perfect!

While I was at it with the pattern tweaks, I performed my first swayback adjustment by pinning out the excess fabric in my existing Plantain shirt, which ended up being 1" at center back. I then slashed the pattern at that same spot and pivoted so the center back was overlapping by that amount. There's a great tutorial for how to do this on the Pattern~Scissors~Cloth blog. It could probably use a touch more, but much improved.

I then cut out and sewed up my new pattern, using my altered Plantain pattern and the boat neckline of the Bonnie. The raw edges were all serged individually and sewn together with a lightning bolt stitch, pressed open, and topstitched down on each side of the seam to create a pretty seam finish. I also incorporated small side slits using instructions from True Bias's Sutton Blouse, which made this garment a true frankenpattern!

The result? Good, I think. The sleeves fit fine, and I imagine I'd have to sew up a short-sleeve version to test whether it corrects the flare-out problem. The grain is better but not perfectly parallel yet. I may have to increase the sleeve cap even more to really improve the grain line, but I am happy with this version for my purposes.

However, I have also realized that I have one more fit issue that is more related to the fit of the front of the shirt than the sleeves. See those puckers or folds of fabric right above the bust? I didn't know it at the time but have since discovered that I need to do a sloping shoulder adjustment, and possibly narrow the shoulders a touch. More on that later, as I have now made those adjustments on a different top and am very happy with the fit of that one.

For now I am loving this shirt - perfect color, good fit, and really great for the weather we are having right now. And I also feel just a tad bit smarter having looked into this particular issue. Slowly but surely!

Grandma Pants

Pattern: True Bias's Hudson Pants
Fabric: 2 yds light weight denim stretch woven
Cost: $20

It's happened: grad school has kicked my fashion sense down a notch. I won't tell you these elastic-waist pants are trendy, cute, or elegant but I will say that they are darn comfortable. Born out of my need for comfy clothes on my mid-week day off, these stretch woven denim pants are perfect for sitting on the couch under a pile of books and taking the dog out on long mid-day walks. They're not high fashion, but they work great for my every day life right now.

I made them using True Bias's ever-popular Hudson pants, sizing up a couple of sizes as recommended to make them in a woven fabric. I cut the cuffs bigger as well, and modified them into a tulip shape. It's a fun detail on an otherwise basic pant.

The slight stretch of the material gives them that extra give that makes them truly comfortable compared to other woven pants I own. I noticed mine are a bit baggier than other versions out there, but I really don't know how you would make them more fitted without popping any seams. I could see, however, taking out a bit of fabric in the crotch area. I may try these again in the very similar V8909, just to see how differently it will play out.

As well as wearing them around the neighborhood, these were perfect for the long drives required to visit family this holiday season, so I am not apologizing for my granny pantsies. I do, however, have a yummy jacket and a Christmas top headed your way once it stops raining and my photographer gets back into town. 

Men's Hudson Pants

Pattern: True Bias's Men's Hudson Pants

Fabric: 2 yds French Terry

Cost: $15

Around the house, I wear my True Bias Hudson Pants just about every night. They are probably my most worn me-made garment ever by sheer virtue of their comfiness and ease of wear, and the fact that you can wear the same jammies over and over again, and no one will see.

I asked Mr. Made if he would like a pair. He said no. So of course I signed right up to test the Men's Hudson pants and make him a pair. I figured he doesn't know what he's missing.

Now, he doesn't read this blog, so I am going to let you in on a little secret: his loungewear is far from cute. We're talking plaid fleece with an all-over dog paw print, or grey sweatpants that hit just above the ankle as if he's outgrown them. So although no one will ever see his pajamas, I decided his were getting a makeover anyway. As a bonus, I figured he might be able to wear these to the climbing gym, another area in his wardrobe that is lacking.

Like the Women's Hudson Pants, the Men's Pants are easy to cut out and sew. The tester version of the pattern was just 25 pages to print out (compare to some Burda patterns which are 60+), and is comprised of only a few pattern pieces. I had the whole thing cut out and nearly sewn up in one short evening.

The sizing is a nice range, too, going two whole sizes below Mr. Made's size, which is impressive because many of the Big 4 patterns are all too big for him. While Kelli has released a kids' version of the Hudson pants, it seems that the men's pattern would work well for teens as well because the sizing extends all the way down to a 28" waist. It's really nice to get such a wide range in a pattern. 

Unfortunately for me, the one area I didn't plan out was the length. The pattern comes with inseam measurements, but silly me didn't stop to think that if his store-bought pants were too short, then the pattern might be as well. While I haven't had an issue with other jeans patterns, it isn't uncommon for store-bought clothes to be a bit short on him. Kelli has extended the length of the pattern by about an inch from this tester version, and for mine Mr. Made requested a good four inches (he wanted them extra long). To achieve this, I created diagonal knee patches for a sort of motorcycle look. It's subtle, and doesn't look like a total mistake, and he is now very happy with the length (although I think they're a touch too long). 

As with the women's pants, one of the fun parts of this pattern is the ability to add contrasting colors. It works nicely on a men's pattern, too, because it gives it a touch of style without getting too frilly. On these, I did the cuffs, waistband, and pocket using the wrong side of the fabric.

Shortly after finishing these, the weather turned cold and Mr. Made got sick. These were all he wore. We also received his favorite catalog in the mail that featured a similar pair of trendy sweatpants, so I think I've won him over. The best part is, made up in different fabrics few people would be able to spot that we're virtually wearing the same pants. 

With gift-giving season coming up, this would be a very easy and quick pattern for the man or teenager in your life!

P.S. Your eyes do not deceive you: This post is full of animal photo bombs. 

Navy Sutton Blouse

Pattern: True Bias's Sutton Blouse

Fabric: rayon from Bay Area Sewists Fabric Swap 

Price: free/swapped

I loved the idea of the Sutton Blouse - it's a simple top with a stylish v-neck perfect for work or the weekend. But I realized that my first/tester version was all sorts of wrong for me - it was a little big, with fabric that wrinkled easily and semi disintegrated in the wash. So when I got my hands on the final copy of the pattern, I was eager to sew it up for real, in a color I knew I would wear.

For this version I used a beautiful fabric I got from the 'mystery fabric' table at the last Bay Area Sewists fabric swap in July. It was labeled as 100% rayon from fellow sewist Linda Tran, and is firm and silky with a bit of sheen. I really wanted to use a solid fabric to show off the seam lines, and this worked perfectly.

The final pattern was sized down slightly and the neckline raised, so the fit was much improved as well. I made up a size 0 based on my bust measurements, and the fit worked well on the shoulders all the way through the hips. My only issue was that this version came out a bit short, as I am long waisted. I lengthened it slightly by adding a band, but I will definitely be making it a wee bit longer next time. You'll also notice I eliminated the hi-lo hem. In the pic below you can see both the length and my latest Ginger Jeans, in a slightly better light than my last post.

I wore this top to our last meetup, another fabric swap, and was pleased to see I wasn't the only one wearing a Sutton - Ali was wearing hers too! As you can tell, we're having a beautiful January out here in California, and I could see some making some more of these blouses in my future.

Sutton Blouse

Pattern: True Bias's Sutton Blouse (pattern tester)
Fabric: 1.5 yds rayon challis
Cost: $15

This is True Bias's new pattern, the Sutton Blouse! You know I love me a kimono top, so it's no surprise I'm sporting another one here. Kelli drafted this out of a desire for more v-neck patterns, which I think can be more dressed-up and sexy than your every-day crew-neck. It also features an inverted back pleat, high-low slit hem, and a one-piece yoke detail. 

I made mine up in white with a red yoke, which is really quite sporty. However, after seeing Kelli's gorgeous single-color green version, I am totally envious and have plans to make one just like that next. The yoke gives you an opportunity to play around with color or just interesting seam details, which takes this top a notch above basic.

As a pattern tester, I sewed mine up in size 0, the smallest size. Because it's a loose-fitting top, I went with my bust measurements, where I often fall into a smaller size. The fit was not too snug at all, and in fact fit me a bit big in the shoulders (no surprise there, as that is another common adjustment for me). Since I made it up, Kelli took about an inch total from the ease and 1/4" at the neckline, which I think should make the fit even better on me. She also raised the neckline by a 1/4", and I might raise it even a bit more to suit my tastes. 

As for the other design details, I love the seaming and think it would add a lot of interest to even a black or dark-colored shirt. I am not a fan of high-low hems, but I know they are very popular right now, so that is another interesting design feature. And the back pleat ensures I will be able to ride my bike to work without ripping any seams - always a bonus for me!

Finally, I have to say how much I love Kelli's instructions. I think she does an excellent job of explaining every step of the way, right down to the stay stitching and seam finishes. While she rates the pattern "intermediate" because it is made for slippery drapey fabrics, I think her instructions would be perfect for a beginner looking to tackle a new pattern. 

The one thing I am struggling with for this top and a few others I've made recently is the fabric. After hearing a lot about rayon challis from other bloggers, I have made up a few shirts in it. Unfortunately, I have now also discovered it wrinkles like crazy. I originally thought rayon didn't wrinkle, but I am either mistaken or it depends on the blend and the weave. I've bought two different ones from different sources and had the same problem. Wear it while sitting for a few minutes and I get up looking like, as one Pattern Review member put it, a "wilted flower."

In thinking about the clothes I reach for most often in my closet, I have also realized that the ones that do not require ironing are easiest to wear. There's a Scout tee I have made out of some synthetic blend that I reach for almost every time, despite the fact that it doesn't breathe very well. So I have been on the hunt for some new fabric ideas. I did see a fabric labeled as "travel linen" at my local store that is sadly no longer there, and I am not opposed to buying fabrics with a hint of synthetics in them to prevent the wrinkles. Does anyone out there have any advice on nice drapey or shirting fabrics that are not as prone to wrinkles?? Thx in advance!!