His and Hers: Favorite Quarantine Patterns

At this point we've been mostly sheltered in place since March 11. That's over 5 months. Over 150 days. It hasn't always been easy - I had a lot of anxiety and some depressed feelings as I adjusted to it all. And these days find myself very angry at times. But we're learning to live with it and committed to slowing the spread. Sewing definitely helps. So today I'm sharing some of my favorite summer loungewear patterns that I've made these past few months for both me and my husband. They aren't anything too groundbreaking - Hudson pants, the Axis tank, Greenstyle leggings. But they do get worn all. the. time. 

For her: Sophie Hines Axis Tank, Hudson Pants, Greenstyle Stride Tights

For him: Thread Theory Strathcona Henley

First up is the tank top pattern of these summer - the Sophie Hines Axis tank. It's a unique pattern with no side seams (just a single seam up the back) so it sews up very quickly. I love the cutout shoulders and that it comes with some color-blocking options. That said, I had to make a few adjustments to the pattern to make it work for me. First, I re-sewed the neckline three times, moving lower until it no longer felt like it was chocking me. While I like the high-neckline look in theory, I quickly discovered it was not comfortable for me. I also found I had to shorten the armhole bands to get the right tension. Turned into a bit of a longer project with all that fiddling. You'll also notice that I lengthened the top. I'm not quite sure this is advisable given the lack of side seam - I definitely had to grade out and it still rides up at my hips a bit. Overall though a very comfy top for summer and I managed to sew it before our heat wave hit.

Below you'll also see that I made a more A-line version. Again this is a bit tricky without the side seams and I'm not sure it fully worked, but I'm all about playing with patterns and having fun during quarantine. The fabric is very soft. 

I've paired each of these tops with two patterns I've sewn over and over again - the Hudson pants from True Bias and the Greenstyle Stride Tights. Each has pockets and lets me trade off between tighter and looser styles so they're pretty much all I need. The one thing I'll say about the Hudson pants is that, like most pants patterns, the fit really varies based on the fabric you're using. The two times I've made this previously they've been on the looser side, but this time they were actually so snug through the legs that I had to add a few inches of fabric to the outside leg seam to relax the fit a bit. I also subbed out the waistband for one that is the length of the elastic rather than the length of the pants to achieve a smoother, un-gathered look. I think I also adjusted the angle of the pocket opening so that my phone wouldn't fall out. 

For the Stride Tights, I used a semi-opaque mesh fabric on the side panels which makes them breezier for summer. I mostly wear this pair for running, but have another pair that I wear around the house. I just LOVE the pockets. 

Ok that's four for me what about for the Mr.? He somehow still wears non-stretch pants most days, though I've definitely seen him get more use out of the stretch jeans I've made him. This time around I made him two Strathcona Henleys. I think I meant to make these up for his last birthday (in December - whoops) but had the fabric on hand ready to go. He is partial to soft shirts and these definitely fit the bill. Plus the buttons make a t-shirt look a little dressed up for video meetings. Right?

One of the fabrics had a print on one side and was plain on the other, so I decided to have some fun with it. I like the diagonal stripe although I wish I'd centered it a bit lower. For some reason, I really struggled cutting this one out. 

I've made him one of these before that he wears often. While he is nearly 6 feet tall I did shorten the sleeves and torso as they are quite long. I also hate that placket - I find myself swearing every time I make it. On the plus side, you'll notice there was some fabric leftover for me ;) 

Any recommendations for your favorite loungewear patterns? 

Rebelling Against the Skinny Jean

Pattern: modified Thread Theory's Lazo Trousers
Fabric: 1.5 yds stretch denim
Cost: $8

Lately, I've grown tired of my skinny jeans. I just want something soft, something comfy, something you can really move in. So on a whim, I sewed up these perfectly baggy jeans using one of my favorite pants patterns, the Lazo Trousers. In stretch denim they are loose and comfy and just the thing for hanging out in. 

I have made this pattern up twice before (once as pants and once as overalls), and my favorite part is how they hang in the back. No fiddling to get them to hang just right.

In the front, I did remove the pleats this time, and I'm thinking I could have taken the fabric in just a bit more.

I have big plans for these this summer. We are planning a three-month trip to Europe! I'm thinking they will be the perfect travel wear and for those countries where it doesn't get quite so hot. More details soon...

Overalls

Pattern: Thread Theory's Lazo Trousers with inspiration from McCall's 7062 and BurdaStyle's Overalls 07/2016 #109
Fabric: ~2 yds wool suiting
Cost: free from Bay Area Sewists fabric swap :)

While I probably have mounds of more practical sewing to do, I couldn't help myself. I made a pair of overalls...   In truth I think I've been lusting after a pair for a while. I love making pants, and overalls seemed like a good quirky alternative to try out. And ever since I'd sewn the Lazo Trousers, I knew they would make a good base for the style I was going for - relaxed but still fitted. 

Of course, I couldn't just use the Lazo Trousers pattern because, well, it's a pattern for pants, not overalls. So a pattern hack was in order. I had an old McCall's overalls pattern, but they were very 80s with a boxy fit and side tie closure that I didn't like. So for good measure I threw in a third pattern, BurdaStyle Overalls 07/2016 #109, which Pauline had sent me in a BurdaStyle magazine. I suppose I could have used this pattern alone, but I trust the fit of my Lazo Trousers so much more than a new pattern, and I also wanted straps that came all the way to the front instead of tying at the shoulder. I somehow managed to mash together all three, along with a some ninja drafting, and came up with this design. 

The hardest part for me was figuring out the side closures. I couldn't quite conceive how to get the sides to overlap at the front and not have wide seam allowances all the way down the leg. I think what I should have done was raise the top of the pants up several more inches instead of using the waistband, and drafted a sort of fly at both sides. As pictured above, though, I ended up sewing up the sides of the pants and then overlapping the waistband pieces, which had to extend at the sides to be large enough. It's not a very elegant solution, but as these are casual pants and a first go at it I'm not overly concerned.

The top also has a few issues - I think the neckline got a little stretched or else needs to be a little narrower. And after everything was sewn up and basted together I realized I needed bust darts, so those were thrown in there a little haphazardly Luckily they are covered up by the pocket, and in black you really can't see much. 

The fabric by the way came from a few yards of wool suiting I grabbed at the end of the last Bay Area Sewists fabric swap. It was sitting dejected on a table ready to go in the donation bag when I scooped it up. I knew I could always find a use for some plain black wool. It looked like it had already had another project cut from it, but with some creative layout I managed to cut all the pattern pieces I needed. 

 So far I've worn these out to drinks and taking the dog on walks and am very pleased with them. The wool isn't scratchy at all, and the color makes them a little more subtle than jeans overalls. I made need to make the back less fitted though as they are a little tight vertically when I am stretching down to get something. Overall though a fun go at something new.

My New Favorite Pants: The Lazo Trousers

Pattern: Thread Theory's Lazo Trousers
Fabric: 1 1/2 yards Kaufman Bi Stretch Tropical Suiting
Cost: $17

Meet the Lazo Trousers, Thread Theory's second pattern for women and my latest pants obsession. I tend to really trust Morgan, who has a degree in fashion design and works with other really great professionals in the industry. She takes her time to make quality patterns, and in this case has been working on this pattern for over four years - it was inspired by her collection in design school and I first tested it back in early 2015! Even though she is a menswear designer, she worked really hard to fit women's curves, and for me these pants have been near perfection.

In the description, designer Morgan perfectly sums up my need for pants: slim trousers designed for a full bum and flat stomach that hug your curves without being too tight and uncomfortable. Her drafting is impeccable, and never have I had a pair of pants fit me this well out of the envelope! The back hangs perfectly from the fullest part of my bum, and the outer side seam slopes gracefully past my knock knees. A beautiful sight to see! In the photo below you can see the stretch fabric bag a little at the knee after wearing them all day, but they hang perfectly down the back and through the knee. Heart eyes.

Of course, this doesn't mean that I didn't fit them. I took a 4 inch wedge out of the center back, tapering toward the crotch, which is a major adjustment. It is a fairly common issue for me in pants fitting, as I am very pear shaped and often have gaping back there. Secondly, while the pants are drafted for a fuller bum, I found the top still pulled down in the back, meaning I needed to further increase the crotch depth. Morgan has a nice blog post with this and other fit adjustments for the Lazos. After making these changes to the center back, I adjusted the waistband to match. I brought it in at the sides, but later realized I need to reduce it in the back only - I need that extra room at the front after all those Christmas cookies!

You'll also notice that I shortened the waistband. While I like the wide waistband in theory, the narrower waistband was necessary for making some in-progress fit adjustments, and also has a more classic look that I like. I will try that wide waistband someday though! Notice also those little pleats for extra movement and style.

Other than the changes to the center back and waistband, they fit very well! I think making them up in a drapey fabric was key. These were made in a polyester/rayon/spandex blend from Robert Kaufman that has a slight bit of stretch and makes them suuuper comfy. The pattern is also similar to my pants block, with an L-shaped crotch curve and legs at the same angle, which helped them fit right out of the envelope.

I have so many plans to make more of these. On Instagram, I posted a pattern hack idea for Lazo Trouser overalls, and I would love to make up some more in various colors. In suiting I think they look great for work, and here I have them styled more casually as per this inspiration I've had pinned forever. I am also wearing my new purse that Mr. Made got me for Christmas which I picked out today, although you can't actually see the purse itself in any of my pictures (sad face). It's from Sven Handbags, locally made in Berkeley, USA from the softest leather.

I have so many more sewing plans in progress and on my mind, from a men's bomber jacket to completed motorcycle pants to more Pattern Magic goodness. But the semester is also starting, so let's see what I get done!

Blue and Gold Jeans

Pattern: Thread Theory's Jedediah Pants
Fabric: Threadbare Fabric's 12.5oz Cone Mills Denim
Cost: $30

For Christmas I bought Mr. Made some beautiful 12.5 oz Cone Mills denim from Threadbare Fabrics and made him up a muslin. Lately he has discovered the amazingness of premium jeans, but also the price tag. I was sure I could approximate some for a much better price, and after seeing Katie's husband's jeans I was inspired. Threadbare Fabrics was one of the few places online I could find Cone Mills denim by the yard (and so of course I bought myself some yardage, too).

While I have made him the Thread Theory Jedediah pants before, for this special pair I wanted to make up a muslin first to really work out some of the small fit fixes. I started from scratch and traced him a straight size 32 muslin. Technically he should be a size 34, but that size had been a bit too big on him at the waist so I sized down. I love the Jedediahs for Mr. Made because they are one of the few men's pants patterns I know of that actually go down to his size and the slim fit is just his style.

The resulting muslin fit beautifully - much better than expected - with one exception: they were too tight across the front below the waistband (and the jeans-style pockets I had drafted needed some tweaks). There weren't really any pulling lines, but there wasn't as much ease as desired. I imagine that this is an issue more or less unique to men's pants as their, uh, anatomy in this area requires different ease considerations. Sure enough, my internet research of this issue showed only tummy adjustment and butt adjustments on women's pants. Nevertheless, I figured I could borrow some basic ideas for my second muslin.

Adding more room at the side seams didn't help, so I started investigating more involved alterations. While my initial inclination was to slash a vertical line through each thigh and spread for more room, I was worried that this would create other issues and it didn't seem to be recommended in any of the articles I had read. After more research, I found that there were a few different methods for adding more room in this area. But which to choose? Luckily for me, Lisanne from Sewing Plums laid it out in a great article about Fabric wedges for body bumps below the waist (summarized below):

Technically Lisanne was referring to alterations for the back of the pants, but I believe the same applies to the front: Angela Wolf has you spread the pattern for a fuller belly, while Don McCunn recommends extending the front crotch curve for this issue. As you can see, each of these methods lengthens the front crotch, but adds the fullness at different places.

For Mr. Made, I decided to first try adding more fullness at the mid hip level by horizontally slashing and spreading as it sounded like that was the main problem area. Angela Wolf offers a great tutorial on this, as does Colette. For this version there was no need to make a full muslin - shorts length would do. He gave this new muslin the all-clear, but in the final version I think this was a mistake. He was happy the issue with the jeans-style front pockets I had drafted fit better, and I think forgot to check the other fit issue. Next time we will try the longer crotch extension, and I have saved the muslin. Fitting Mr. Made was hard, as I don't usually sew for others and it gets tricky when they don't have the right vocabulary or haven't spent months thinking about their ideal fit.

However, he was otherwise quite positive about his new pants, possibly because I warned him about being nice after I'd spent days making the pair. He has been happily wearing them and showing them off, and his co-worker, a jeans snob, was very impressed.

The hardest part of the construction for me was the topstitching. I used Gutterman jean topstitching thread in the needle only, and my machine hated it. I have also come to the conclusion that, were I planning on making men's jeans full time, I would invest in an industrial machine that could really handle all the layers, like sewing up overlapping seams or doing the hem. There's a few rough looking spots, and I have gained new respect for all those pro topstitchers out there.

I do love how these turned out, but right now I am just too tired from all the topstitching to think about making him more pants for at least another year.

As a bonus, Beatrix also got a denim jacket from some other scraps I had lying around. *heart*

Men's Pants

Pattern: Thread Theory's Jedediah Pants
Fabric: Eco Twill Denim Blue
Cost: $17

In my household we joke that, while we both wear the pants, I'm the one that makes them. And while I don't sew all of Mr. Made's clothes, I do try to sneak in a few projects for him. These were a pair I made up for his birthday in December. He had originally picked out the fabric, but I realize now that it had been bought over a year prior. Oops! Anyway, birthdays are a good excuse to do some unselfish sewing.

I have written about Thread Theory's Jedediah Pants before, so there's not much new to report there. I like them because they're one of the few pants patterns available that actually go down to his size and have a slim, modern fit. For this pair I did tweak the fit at the hips and front fly area to be a bit more roomy while leaving the waistband snug (I had previously made everything snug, and now it was a bit too snug). Now that I've gotten the chance to do some more pants fitting on myself I think it would be fun to really fit this pattern to him, but there's never enough time when we're both hanging out at home to do it. 

For this pair, I wanted to follow the welt pocket tutorial on the Thread Theory blog, but I had already cut out my pants with a yoke, and their version requires that you convert the yoke into darts. However, that seam did give me the idea to do a sort of in-seam back pocket flap, and after a little googling I confirmed that this could be done. The line drawing for Vogue 8940 shows a pair of yoked mens pants with a pocket sewn into the yoke seam and covered with a flap. Of course, they don't offer a picture of said pockets, but luckily for me someone had posted an image on Sewing Pattern Review, which allowed me to copy the design.

As you've noticed, the color on these turned out a bit bright. Looking back now at my order I see that the sample on Fabric.com did look a bit darker. He has been wearing them a great deal though, mostly because he doesn't have a ton of pants for work, and then one of his 'more fashionable' students complemented them, so I think that gave him a morale boost!

More Jedediah Pants

Pattern: Thread Theory's Jedediah Pants

Fabric: grey denim

Cost: $30

Ever since I made K his last pair of Jedediah Pants, he's been bugging me to make him another. He has recently taken a professor gig in San Francisco, and needed some more professional-looking pants to see him through. With its side pockets and skinny fit, Jedediah is just perfect. Plus, it's awesome to have someone want me to make them clothes ;)

The first pair of Jedediah pants was a bit of a wearable muslin and came out a little baggy on him, so for this pair I took in the sides and the waist. I thought it would be a bit tight, but he says it's pretty near perfect. Men have absolutely no hips!

All raw edges are serged and sew flat to the fabric, and high-stress seams like the crotch are reinforced with extra stitching. This is about my sixth pair of pants this year, so I feel like I'm getting the hand of what works and what doesn't. Plus, there's something about classic menswear that just makes me want to sew perfect seams. I finished these pants and thought to myself, damn I'm good at sewing! Having the perfect pattern by Thready Theory doesn't hurt, either. 

For the pockets, I'm not sure if K was drunk or just joking with our friend, but when I asked him what stitch he wanted on the pockets he said he wanted big M's for "Made by Meg" or "Meg's Man." Well, he wasn't around when I got to the pockets, so that's what he got! They're a bit abstract, so I think they could work as mountains or just zig-zag stitching anyway (pardon the chalk lines still on the fabric). He said they're a bit silly, but it was his only suggestion. The front pockets are lined in the same musical fabric as the last ones. 

Well, I think I've used the word "perfect" at least four times in this post already, so you can tell I love them. I snapped these pictures before he headed off to work today, and I think they'll work just great!

Men's Pants + Giveaway!

Pattern: Thread Theory's Jedediah Pants

Fabric: denim

Cost: $10

Remember my excitement when I made my first pair of pants? Well, I MADE MEN'S PANTS! The quest for the perfect men's pattern started months ago, but at the time there were no commercial patterns that we loved (or that came in his size), and independent men's patterns couldn't be found. But it was this search in part that led me to reconnect with Thread Theory, and to my delight they had men's pants on their list. I had previously tested out their Newcastle Cardigan, which has been getting tons of use, and I knew that these pants would be a hit as well. When they were looking for testers this time around, I jumped at the chance!

If you are intimidated to sew pants - men's or women's - make this your first pattern. If you are an advanced sewist, buy this now, too. The attention to detail, beautiful instructions, and great end product make these pants a joy to sew up. I've slowly been learning the benefit of going with independent pattern companies, and Thread Theory is one of the best. From including details like the finished garment measurements to instructions on how to french seam the pockets, I can't tell you how much I enjoyed this pattern!

As is the case with women, the main reason to sew my man up some pants (besides cost) is to get him the perfect fit. Even though men are more straight up and down and often wear looser styles than women, there are some key things that make pants work or not. For him, he often needs a narrower waistband so that his pants stay up. When they are too loose, the butt bags out too much and he has to wear a belt. 

After sewing these up, I determined that the fit was pretty great, but could use a few alterations to get to be his favorite pair. For the next version, I plan on making the waistband sit a bit lower, and bringing it in until it's the close fit he wants. I already took the curve out of the side seams at the top, so we're getting close! The fabric is on its way in the mail, and I can't wait to sew up the next version! Plus at $10-$30 bucks a pop, these babies are way cheaper than a quality store-bought pair.

What's really cool about this pattern was to see how it was made up by the different pattern testers. Same pattern, but three different men with three different styles. You can really see the potential of this basic design:

Notes from a Mad Housewife, The Creative Counselor, and K

Plus, you can personalize your pants with all sorts of fun details, from the pocket stitching to the front pocket lining. You don't always see playful menswear, but this is the part I think is the most fun. For his version, I got to use a scrap of woven musical instrument fabric, which was a great personal touch. I sewed it so that you can see the musical instruments when the pants are off, which give them some hanger appeal.

The final reason to sew your man up some pants? He'll need to try them on a few times, which means getting to see him in his skivvies more often ;)

He doesn't particularly enjoy being a model, but is generally a good sport...

Now, for the giveaway!

If I haven't already convinced you that you need to sew these up right now, here's one final reason: you can win your own pattern for free right here! All you have to do is comment on this post by the end of the California day on Friday, and you'll be entered to win. Of course, I'd love to hear the details of what you'd make up: shorts or pants, material, fun pocket ideas, or who you're making them for! Go get 'em, tiger!

Thanks for entering everyone! The giveaway is now closed, and the winner will be announced soon!

Men's Newcastle Cardigan

Pattern: Thread Theory's Newcastle Cardigan
Material: light sweater knit (body) and faux leather vinyl (yoke)
Cost: $20

Have you heard about Thread Theory patterns?! If you're into indie patterns and interested in menswear,  then you're about to get pretty excited! Thread Theory Designs is a brand new independent menswear sewing pattern company run by the lovely wife and husband team, Morgan and Matt. That's right: stylish, indie MENSWEAR!

While I've seriously been loving the amazing range of independent pattern companies popping up lately for WOMEN, until now I have struggled to find good patterns for the MEN in my life. I even went so far as to convert the Minoru Jacket into a men's pattern... So, you know I was darn excited when I discovered the Thread Theory site, and I have been eagerly awaiting the release of their patterns. 

Lucky me, this past week I had the opportunity to pattern test their first pattern, the Newcastle Cardigan, a gorgeous sweater with a shawl collar for "men who would like to stay cozy but look stylish."

First off, I love the look of this pattern: it's not too over-designed for a man, but still has stylish elements that make it unique and fun. While I am always a little bit nervous when sewing for others, the fit was great, the pattern worked, and we both love the final result! Especially for us casual west-coasters, I think this sweater is the perfect balance between dressed up and not-trying-too-hard cool.

For my version, I found a very lightweight sweater knit at the local discount fabrics, and I couldn't help but pair it with a faux leather vinyl yoke and wooden buttons for that 'hard and soft' look. The faux leather vinyl does have a bit of a stretch, so it worked perfect. I think this element also dresses up the sweater a little bit for a night out on the town (in a very casual San Francisco sort of way), and he can also wear it to work or dinner. The lightweight fabric makes it great for summer, and we already have plans to sew this up in a heavier fabric for the winter!

While I'm pretty notorious for not following pattern instructions, as a pattern tester I followed everything to the letter and was very pleased with the results! The instructions walk you through all the steps with clear pictures, and they have seriously thought of everything! The facings are nicely sewn down in place, the design of the upper and lower collars folds the seam line out of site, and I had no challenges whatsoever with fit. Bravo, especially for their first pattern!

 Look for the Newcastle Cardigan pattern to be released on May 15th, and a lucky surprise may be coming your way for one of my readers!!!