Serger Hems

The first thing that people want to do with a serger is figure out how to use it to hem a garment. Knit hems are especially tricky (at least for me), but unfortunately you can't get that nice serged hem unless you have a really fancy (read: expensive) machine.

Of course, you can serge the raw edge of the hem and then fold it under and sew it in place with a double needle. But there is a way to use your serger to make a decorative and functional hem. This stitch is basically the combination of a blind hem and flatlock stitch, and looks differently depending on how you fold the hem.


Hem Version 1:

What it looks like: The classic serger stitch can be seen on the outside of the garment at a distance from the edge depending on how wide your hem is. (Ignore my whacky tension.) Press.

How to do it: Fold your hem under twice--each fold has to be the same width in order to "catch" the raw edge as you sew. Sew along the fold but DO NOT cut the fold (or you will have a hole in your garment). When done, open up the seam as for a flatlock stitch.



Hem Version 2:


What it looks like: The railroad stitching can be seen on the outside of the garment at a distance from the edge depending on how wide your hem is.

How to do it: Fold your fabric as for a blind hem. Sew along the edge; you may cut off the raw edge of the fabric but DO NOT cut the fold (or you will have a hole in your garment). When done, open up the seam as for a flatlock stitch. Press.

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