This weekend I updated my Serger skillz with a little class from Terry McClintock at Stone Mountain and Daughter. I learned all about thread tension, but I also put a few new stitches in my repertoire. Here's what I learned about what most every serger can do:
First off, it must be said that while serger tension stays the same for all fabrics, you may want to use a different stitch depending on the fabric you are sewing with and how you want your final project to look. The following is how to adjust your machine for different projects.
What it is: How far the fabric moves between each stitch, i.e. how close together or far apart the threads will be.
How to adjust it: On my machine it is the white dial on the left of the machine. Check your manual.
When to use it: Stitch length is mostly a decorative adjustment and should be set at length that pleases you. Closer together stitches will have more thread making for stronger seams, farther apart stitches will leave fewer holes for fabrics like laminated cotton or leather. I usually keep mine around a 2.
What it is: The width of the stitching from the raw edge towards the inside of the garment (generally ranging between 2.5mm and 5mm).
How to adjust it: There are two ways to adjust width. The first is to adjust the dial on your machine, which makes very small width adjustments (less than 1mm). The second is to use only your right needle (3-thread) for a narrow stitch, and only your left needle (3-thread) or your left and right needle (4-thread) for a wider stitch. My machine doesn't have a width dial, so the only way to adjust width is for me to decide on whether to use my right needle (2.5mm width) or left/both needles (5mm width). See pictures below for 4- and 3-thread stitches.
When to use it: Again, stitch width is mostly a decorative adjustment and should be set at width that pleases you. If you're sewing on decorative elastic or doing certain stitches, you will use the width that is most appropriate.
4-Thread
What it is: Standard stitch using upper looper, lower looper, right needle and left needle threads.
3-Thread
Rolled Hem
Flatlock
Differential Feed
What it is: How much a fabric is stretched or bunched as it is fed through the feedddogs.
What it is: A pintuck with serger stitching running along the pintuck.
When to use it: This is a decorative stitch that can be used instead of a straight stitch to make pintucks. The difference is that the serged pintuck leaves serger stitching along the pintuck.
Hems
See Serger Hems for two types of hems that can be done with a regular 3- or 4-thread machine.
First off, it must be said that while serger tension stays the same for all fabrics, you may want to use a different stitch depending on the fabric you are sewing with and how you want your final project to look. The following is how to adjust your machine for different projects.
Length
What it is: How far the fabric moves between each stitch, i.e. how close together or far apart the threads will be.How to adjust it: On my machine it is the white dial on the left of the machine. Check your manual.
When to use it: Stitch length is mostly a decorative adjustment and should be set at length that pleases you. Closer together stitches will have more thread making for stronger seams, farther apart stitches will leave fewer holes for fabrics like laminated cotton or leather. I usually keep mine around a 2.
Width
How to adjust it: There are two ways to adjust width. The first is to adjust the dial on your machine, which makes very small width adjustments (less than 1mm). The second is to use only your right needle (3-thread) for a narrow stitch, and only your left needle (3-thread) or your left and right needle (4-thread) for a wider stitch. My machine doesn't have a width dial, so the only way to adjust width is for me to decide on whether to use my right needle (2.5mm width) or left/both needles (5mm width). See pictures below for 4- and 3-thread stitches.
When to use it: Again, stitch width is mostly a decorative adjustment and should be set at width that pleases you. If you're sewing on decorative elastic or doing certain stitches, you will use the width that is most appropriate.
4-Thread
What it is: Standard stitch using upper looper, lower looper, right needle and left needle threads.
How to adjust it: The tension for my machine is 7-4-0-4. My machine is a bit out of whack, so play with yours to find out what works best.
When to use it: This is a general stitch, slightly more reinforced and uses more thread than the 3-thread stitch.
3-Thread
What it is: Standard stitch using the upper looper and the lower looper, and either the right needle or the left needle threads.
How to adjust it: Remove either the left needle (for a narrower stitch) or the right needle (for a wider stitch). Make sure to remove the thread from the entire machine, including tension spools. The tension for my machine is 7-4-0-3. My machine is a bit out of whack, so play with yours to find out what works best.
When to use it: This is a general stitch, slightly less reinforced and uses less thread than the 3-thread stitch. The 3-thread stitch is also used for the rolled hem stitch, below.
Rolled Hem
 |
| lower looper (blue) thread extends all the way up and over the raw edge, with the upper looper (red) thread not visible |
What it is: Narrow rolled hem for decorative finishing in which the lower looper thread extends all the way up and over the edge of the seam.
How to adjust it: Remove the left needle and thread as for a 3-thread stitch. Increase the tension on the lower looper by a few numbers. The tension for my machine is 7-4-0-7. Narrow the stitch length so that the threads are closer together, making a smoother edge. My machine is a bit out of whack, so play with yours to find out what works best.
When to use it: This is a great stitch for a decorative finishing on raw edges that will show. It is generally seen at necklines, to finish ruffles, and for home decor like napkins. My sample doesn't quite "roll" because apparently I'm missing a plate and a foot, but the lower looper thread does extend all the way over the edge to the other side.
Flatlock
What it is: A serger stitch that lies flat when the seam is opened up, holding the two fabrics together with their raw edges touching.
How to adjust it: Use both needles for a 4-thread flatlock, or remove one needle and thread for a 3-thread flatlock. Increase the tension on the lower looper by a few numbers. The tension for my machine is 0-0-0-7. My machine is a bit out of whack, so play with yours to find out what works best.
Once you have sewn your seam, open up the seam and gently pull so that the threads slip into place. (Try it, you'll see). You should see a flat serger seam down the center connecting the two raw edges.
Once you have sewn your seam, open up the seam and gently pull so that the threads slip into place. (Try it, you'll see). You should see a flat serger seam down the center connecting the two raw edges.
When to use it: This is a great stitch for thick fabrics like fleece or any time you need to reduce seam bulk. The seam looks different on the front from the back. For version 1 on the outside, sew garment wrong sides together. For version 2 on the outside, sew garment right sides together. You can achieve certain lace looks by leaving a gap between the raw edges with the threads stretching between the gap, but my knowledge doesn't extend as far as a tutorial.
 |
| flatlock version 1 |
 |
| flatlock version 2 |
Differential Feed
How to adjust it: On my machine it is the black dial on the left of the machine. Check your manual.
When to use it: Normally, the differential feed should be set at a neutral position. For stretch knit fabrics that tend to stretch under the presser foot as you sew, set the differential feed to a higher number so that it keeps the fabric from stretching as you sew.
Decorative Pintuck
What it is: A pintuck with serger stitching running along the pintuck.
How to use it: Adjust as for a 3-thread rolled hem (for a narrower pintuck) or 4-thread rolled hem (for a wider pintuck). Fold the fabric along where you want the pintuck. Sew along the fold WITHOUT cutting the fold (or you will have a hole in your pintuck).
Hems
See Serger Hems for two types of hems that can be done with a regular 3- or 4-thread machine.
No comments:
Post a Comment